PFW AW13: Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs knows how to dress women and under his direction they are always strong and sensual creatures. He also knows how to carry a theme. When Edie Campbell stepped out onto the catwalk sporting a black, cropped 1950s wig, dark, sculptural make-up and a long, printed housecoat we knew we were in for another thematic journey.
Models each exited from hotel room doors alluding to wealthy women that swans around at their leisure in silk and lace nighties and negligees, or perhaps his intention was to allude to the tainted woman who leaves a hotel room after plying her trade. The models were certainly made to look rather “hard” which gave the impression of women that had had to work or at least who had not had the easiest of lives – or perhaps they were just wearied by their frightfully rich but terribly dull husbands.
Floral silk nighties and pyjamas were paired with thick overcoats, some of which resembled luxury silk dressing gowns, these were paired with indulgent fluffy handbags. Sumptuous velvets were used to add a sense of more formal evening wear to the night-dresses. Beautiful plaid coats had the appearance of having been dip-dyed in sequins, similarly skirt suits had their jackets dipped in them and mohair tops were heavily embellished with them at the waist.
Coats then became very luxe affairs in pastels, plums and dusky blue silks with a soft fur lining and delicate print on the shoulders – giving a sense of a royal courtier’s attire.
To finish, the collection gave way to thick herringbone dresses woven with glittering thread and sheer, embroidered negligees – sported by none other than Jacobs’ golden girl, Kate Moss. There was certainly something for every woman and something for all seasons. Jacobs himself took his bow wearing a pair of pyjamas from the recent men’s collection. Perhaps to encourage us that a life well-lived was one in which you never get dressed.
by Nicola Kavanagh
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