CECILE Bahnsen has done it again. This season, the Danish designer presented her AW23 collection in Paris at the Palais de Tokyo, and it was a true feast for the eyes. To accompany the collection, Cecilie enlisted singer-songwriter Suki for a live performance. Suki’s intimate brand of confessional ‘bedroom/dream pop’ was the perfect complement to the dreamy and ethereal quality of the collection.
The collection features a range of voluminous dresses in a palette of ethereal colours that will take your breath away. Cecilie has wonderfully patched and gathered the fabric to appear blossom-like, with colours ranging from the sky and cerulean blue to yellows merging sunflower to lemon pastel and pinks ranging from sorbet and rose to poppy red, blossom to magenta. The dresses’ off-the-shoulder silhouettes and kaleidoscopic colour palettes conjure up images of a dreamlike, ethereal, and airy otherworld.
In addition to the vibrant outfits, Cecilie also presented her characteristic minimalist black and white Nordic styles. It was a clever contrast that balanced the collection and showed the designer’s range and versatility.
Cecilie has made an additional step towards sustainability by forming a partnership with Nona Source, the LVMH-backed marketplace for used textiles. The site “sources” high-end materials for its own labels, many of which have outstanding fabrics – a creative way to reduce waste and create new possibilities.
Cecilie’s method of working out her ideas on models, focusing on the touch and feel of fabrics, results in the distinctive volumes and silhouettes that are the hallmark of her designs.
This season, she found herself smocking and ruching, allowing the techniques to lead the design. The result is a collection that expands Cecilie’s universe and pushes the boundaries of her practice.
With its stunning dresses, commitment to sustainability, and creative use of techniques, the collection showcased the designer’s range and vision. It’s no wonder Bahnsen quickly became one of the most talked-about designers in the industry.
by Zlata Kryudor