WHEN a designer takes the reins of a fashion house over there is a fundamental task ahead of them. How do you bring the past to the present whilst also putting your own touch on it? For creative director Bruno Sialelli, Lanvin’s history stretches back to 1889, it created clothes that defined the 1920s and liberated women while still maintaining an element of romanticism.
Freedom and beauty still resonate today, but the tone requires a side of sexiness, something youthful, so Sialelli decided to remix Lanvin’s history with the current taste for fun.
Infusing lightness into the spring-summer 2022 collection, dynamism is found as dresses float as tulle is constructed in waves around the body, draping gestures in flou with raw edges grazing the side of models legs and tailoring stays away from restriction.
Liquid-like gazer and metallic mesh feed into this notion as they reflect, sparkle and glisten with embellishment lifted from the 1934 dress widely referred to as Concerto embroidered onto the dresses. The then-and-now is evident in the baby-doll proportions and pop-art daisy print proving that some things are forever.
With Sialelli’s predecessor notably being Alber Elbaz, who sadly passed away a few months ago, the flowy voluminous dresses are a nod to his era at Lanvin illustrating the influential power this designer had not only on the house but on women who wore his clothes.
Prints and graphics of Batman and Catwoman have their saturation turned up with hues of rich petrol blue, violet and scarlet dominate the colour palette as the collection progresses turning the delicate daisy pattern into something more akin to venomous blossoms.
As Naomi Campbell’s black chiffon cape glided after her as she closed the show, it became clear that history is allowed to repeat itself and there is magic in it too. The past is allowed to return in a new light and it should be celebrated.
Sialelli gave us a chance to reflect and in turn, his hopes at a happy ending might just be there.
by Imogen Clark