FOR MANY fashion is fantasy. It should make you dream of a world more decadent than the one we have around us, one that pushes boundaries and allows for room for all. Schiaparelli is that fantasy.
It is fashion to the point of art and creative director Daniel Roseberry continually gives us a handful of masterpieces in honour of founder Elsa Schiaparelli.
Roseberry describes Elsa as “psycho chic”, a term he admittedly confesses is not a common one nor does it really exist within our vocabulary but nonetheless is how he sees her. A woman who was fascinated with technology, how fabrics could be engineered into more theatrical pieces, a designer who wanted to continually innovate. But, every scientist still goes home at the end of the day.
So, Roseberry looked at this juxtaposition. Who was Elsa ‘in the city’? And, who was Elsa ‘on holiday’? The spring-summer 2022 collection explored the Schiaparelli woman’s wardrobe delving into her home and away looks.
One side of the collection is illustrated with the codes of the House. Surrealist, oversized jewellery, pliable fabric breasts and distorted body parts that are infused with the ‘70s Parisian glamour that is built on horse-bit motifs, miniskirts and slouchy pantsuits.
The other half uncovers her tranquility. Fluid black silk dresses draped over the body in a Grecian manner, sweeping belted kaftans and red-and-white stripes imitating beach umbrellas come together to calm the electric nature of Schiaparelli.
It is this private vs performative insight that makes the Schiaparelli woman so exciting. She is chic and refined while simultaneously being strong.
The clothes translate perfectly between the two notions with neither reducing her ambition and attitude, but rather proving that the force of nature remains.
Roseberry’s innate ability to understand his customer, the founder and the House is a beautiful reminder that of course realism is needed but fantasy will never fail to make you fall in love with fashion each season.
by Imogen Clark