When Elsa Schiaparelli closed the hallowed doors to her iconic maison in December 1954, it slowly sparked the almost mythical recherché that has been associated with the fabled name ever since, and today in Paris on the second day of haute couture, in a galvanising historical moment for fashion in the 21st century, Schiaparelli debuted sincere craftsmanship thanks to its inaugural couture collection with creative director Marco Zanini taking the shocking pink reigns.
Faced with the task of envisioning what course Schiaparelli may have taken had it not closed its doors, Spanish-born Zanini has relished in the anticipation of the fashion crowd despite acknowledging the challenge to “bring Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy to the present and the future”.
With a divinely calm, yet accordingly outré exhibition of impeccable pieces that evoke emotion à la a trademark Zanini flair, and a definitive nod towards brand awareness, he has given Schiaparelli a fitting, contemporary air that flowed smoothly from piece to piece, each one carrying the vibrancies and eclecticism of the boundary breaking brand.
Alongside appointed muse Farida Khelfa, Zanini has manifested radical artistic statements for Schiaparelli connoisseurs, whilst clinching a modern audience with fundamentally beautiful, breath-taking gowns owing to a timeless 1930s mien, with top marks going to the abundance of dainty chapeaus, recollecting the doodles of the great fashion illustrator Christian Bérard, a go-to for Schiaparelli during her apex, and a fabulous reference to the labels heritage.
Next to this, the palette of soft, complimentary hues, enlivened by sprinkles of gilt, with subtle lobster emblems, seen here and there for good luck, merry feathering aplenty, and provocative double-breasted jackets, mark bold new steps for the house. Zanini’s first inning at Schiaparelli spells out that there is much more to come, as a modern fervour steadily grows for further insight into the newly revived house.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy: Style.com