SAINT LAURENT by Anthony Vaccarello hosted their winter 2024 menswear collection runway show during Paris Fashion Week, where Vaccarello looked back at the archive and reimagined some of the house’s most influential silhouettes.
The double-breasted suit jacket associated with 1980’s power commences the show with perfectly tailored forms constructing the strong outlines.
Paired with a shirt, tie and formal trousers, the clean silhouette exudes unparalleled craftsmanship and the classiness often associated with the French fashion house.
As the show further unfolds, structured forms are exchanged for light and flowy contours with couture designs fabricated from crepe georgette and lined with satin — shapes similar to silhouettes of Saint Laurents previous womenswear show.
Fluid silhouettes are realised through dress shirts, jackets and coats with a slight slouch to their fit, and an illusion of fabric transforming to liquid runs throughout the collection.
A juxtaposition to the fluid forms, the runway sees various rubber-like structured jackets and coats paired with leather-brimmed hats covering the eyes characteristic of an armoured body and referential of Saint Laurent 1960s archive.
The collection’s colour palette gradually lightens as dark hues of black and various greys are replaced by chocolate browns, pale nudes, greens, violets and additional dusty shades.
The collection leans into themes of Saint Laurent’s founder and his stylistic evolution from sartorial dressing to boldness and graphic pops of colour.
The show took place at the Bourse de Commerce, with the space decked out in black carpet and decorated with structures of flowers, including calla lilies, anemones and orchids, as a homage to Yves Saint Laurent and his historic shows.
by Nicole Pereira