FERMENTED grape juice, better known as wine, has been crafted from time immemorial, not least in the Bordeaux region of France, home to some of the country’s finest wines. Within Bordeaux lie the ancient vineyards of Saint-Émilion where Domaine Clarence Dillon began creating a brand new entity just over a decade ago, calling it Château Quintus.
Today its vintages regularly command high scores among hard-nosed wine critics thanks to a combination of favourable growing conditions, technical expertise and the company’s own impressive pedigree. But more of that later.
Chateau Quintus
A blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes, Château Quintus comes from an eponymous estate overlooking the glorious Dordogne valley, a unique wine growing landscape dating back to Roman times that has earned it Unesco world heritage status.
I was able to savour it myself on a day in late June when a downpour of rain came as quickly as the blue skies that followed, leaving row upon row of vines glistening in the sunlight. In the distance, one could see the village of Saint–Émilion, or at least its famous church Bell Tower rising above charming mediaeval roof tops.
Chateau Quintus
Mariette Veyssière, manager of the estate, guided me and an accompanying party around Château Quintus viticulture, which aims to make the most of its elevated clay and limestone soils, part of the exceptional ‘terroir’ – a French term approximating to eco-system – to which all Saint–Émilion wines owe their distinctive quality. Insecticides are a no-no and mechanisation is kept to a minimum, she explained, while meadow flowers are sown to encourage beneficial bugs.
Harvesting would come in the dying days of summer, unleashing a burst of activity. For now, there didn’t seem to be a soul about and all around was strangely quiet. Inside a fine stone building perched above the vine slopes that could have doubled up as a country residence stood the large stainless steel and wooden vats where the grapes are placed for extraction. The wine is then blended before being put into oak barrels for ageing.
La Cave du Chateau Wine Store
Each stage is complex and depends on enough knowledge and technical ability to allow for delicate tweaking and bold experimentation, with the final product nevertheless subject to the vagaries of the weather. “It is a long, long learning process,” said Mariette with an easy smile.
It is here where Domaine Clarence Dillon comes into its own as a result of being the name behind the legendary Château Haut-Brion, a wine whose prestige goes back far enough to be praised by 17th century diarist Samuel Pepys, only he called it “Ho Bryan”.
In 1935, Clarence Dillon, an American banker with a love of all things French, purchased the Château Haut-Brion estate near the city of Bordeaux after it had fallen on hard times. His great grandson, Prince Robert of Luxembourg, became chair of the company, which now owns several estates, in 2008.
Also carrying on the family tradition is executive managing director Jean-Philippe Delmas, whose winemaker grandfather and father were instrumental in helping restore Haut-Brion to its former glory. Château Quintus, the company’s fifth wine – hence the name – has emerged from this lineage with the ambition of being one of the best Saint-Emilion wines.
Le Clarence, modern fine dining at its best
Tasting Chateau Quintus Vintages
It was Jean-Philippe himself who supervised us in a wine tasting session in which we sampled different vintages of Château Quintus and sister wine Le Dragon de Quintus, which originates from grapes grown lower down the slopes. Yes, that really does make a difference. The series of tastes we encountered was beguiling, to say the least.
Château Quintus was inevitably on the menu at Le Clarence, a discreet Michelin two-star restaurant housed in the company’s head office, a splendid 19th century building in Paris.
Chef Christophe Pelé with Prince Robert of Luxembourg, head of Domaine Clarence Dillon
Here amid sumptuous surroundings evoking La Belle Epoque, chef Christophe Pelé serves up modern gourmet dining at its best, so good that it has just been voted the 28th best restaurant in the world and the second finest in France by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants panel of international culinary experts.
After enjoying a range of gastronomic delights that included grilled langoustine with oscietra caviar, I visited La Cave du Château downstairs, an extensive wine store. The most expensive bottle was an eye-watering €27,000. But you shouldn’t feel intimidated. I saw several around the €15 mark that I was assured were of good provenance.
Downstairs is La Cave du Château, an extensive wine store. The most expensive bottle was an eye-watering €27,000. But you shouldn’t feel intimidated. I saw several around the €15 mark that I was assured were of good provenance.
One thing’s for sure, what with this and my tour of Château Quintus, buying a bottle of wine will never be the same again.
by Angela Cobbinah
Prices of Château Quintus vary according to vintage and retailer. The average price of a bottle of 2013 Château Quintus is £60.
82 82 10 102. Open from Wednesday to Sunday
Chateau Quintus No 1, Larose, 33330 Saint-Émilion, France +33 5 57 24 69 44
Le Clarence 31 Av. Franklin Delano Roosevelt, 75008 Paris, France. +33 1 82 82 10 102.
Open from Wednesday to Sunday