The Glass Wardrobe Files – we interview Zeke Hemme, founder of Constant Practice

“RINSE and repeat” reads the Instagram bio of Zeke Hemme, founder of Constant Practice, one of the most well-respected archival fashion stores that sells everything from coveted Japanese brands to smaller current designers that align with the intricately crafted Constant Practice aesthetic.

Rinse and repeat is an ethos that Hemme has been vocal about for years. Whether he applies it to wearing the items or collecting the items, Hemme has a passion for making the most of things, learning about every stitch of a brand before selling the project and moving on to the next brand or item of curiosity.

It makes sense, therefore, that Hemme would name his business Constant Practice. With the name officially being launched in 2019, the Constant Practice concept was originally channelled through Hemme’s online persona Soft_ee. It started in 2015 with a humble collection of Undercover pieces, at a time when the brand was picking up momentum in the US. The first notable achievement for Hemme was the following year when he collaborated with the acclaimed site, Grailed, on a The 20 Days of Cav Empt drop.

A suitable partnership when considering that Hemme’s ambition to learn everything he could about the Japanese brand was sparked from purchasing one of their hoodies on Grailed. In 2019, the name Constant Practice was born, quickly gaining mainstream recognition in the archival community for its well-curated selection and extensive knowledge of the backstory behind pieces.

Today, Constant Practice is a multifaceted business offering both archival and contemporary fashion to buy, rent or simply discover at the showroom in Richmond VA. Hemme has a unique grasp of the market and now consults for brands such as Per Götesson, Bryan Jimenèz and Seeing Red, collaborating on the design aspects of certain pieces to satisfy the demand for the growing Constant Practice aesthetic.

Zeke Hemme, founder of Constant Practice

What inspired you to start your business, Constant Practice?

I couldn’t get an entry level job in the industry, so I decided to do everything myself. How would you describe the Constant Practice aesthetic? Laidback, unpretentious, nonchalant – the way that I like to dress.

How do you source your archive pieces? What is your process?

Everywhere that you can think of online. I follow a routine of searching for a couple hours each day. It is becoming harder to do so because the business has grown so much in the last few years.

Which items tend to become your most treasured and why?

Pieces that have a story behind how I purchased them, or items from specific brands that I collect and not sell. Those get me the most excited!

PER GÖTESSON × DIGITOILE AW19 aviator jacket

This jacket marks part of my first order with Per Götesson as well as the first time I decided to bring a new/ upcoming brand to the store. I want the shop to be a space to also shed new light on smaller/lesser-known brands.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO AW91 6.1 The Men leather jacket

This was one of the Yohji Grails I was heavily searching for when I started collecting and selling. They are quite expensive as an investment, but I am happy to have such a rare item in the shop! The inspiration for the collection was the Gulf War, which is why he used various types of aviator jackets and back prints

Since starting your business, have you noticed any change in the demographic of customers visiting the store?

Not really, besides the fact it seems to be more popular these days.

In your opinion, what does the growing love affair with contemporary vintage fashion pieces mean for the fashion industry at large?

Hopefully the industry will take a better approach to product design. Product design was better in the past, which shows why people still invest large amounts of money today into specific products.

ARMANI ‘90s Dual zip denim

Sourcing good interesting‘80s/’90s Armani bottoms is extremely difficult, but these fit the bill. They use a mix of denim and light cotton. My favourite features of them are the colours and tone. I have a pair of these trousers myself which is how good I think they are! JUNYA WATANABE SS05 acid wash packable bag jacket

This collection was heavily influenced by Hikercore –the very much pre-gorpcore [the outdoor apparel-wearing trend] era we live in now. I find the collection to be one of the most cohesive, robust and relevant product offerings that Junya made. The acid-washed bag jackets are some of the hardest pieces to find in the collection. I have only found three sinceI started buying Junya

How did you get into brand consultancy for Per Götesson?

It is a business/slight collaborative relationship. Per is stocked in the store just as he is with other stores, but I try to be very selective with the upcoming products I purchase to make sure that they fit with the store aesthetic/branding. This approach is what I do for any brand that is brought into the shop. Per and I also work on creating specific unique products for the store that fit both Per’s and Constant Practice’s needs. An example would be the slashed crewneck sweaters that we created for SS21.

As with many designers of the pre-internet era, details about early work can be sparse, where do you go for your research?

Via the internet or magazines, but the best way to become informed about a designer’s body of work is to purchase, see and wear them in person (shout out @qwhelo). Imagery can only go so far; you need to physically experience the item. Many collectors of coveted Japanese brands that I have spoken with note that a lot of their understanding comes from seeing the clothes in real life.

What has been the most interesting discovery you have made upon seeing an item?

Reiterate the above – there isn’t one example because each product is unique and has its own features that makes it special. I personally enjoy product fabrication and design elements.

CRAIG GREEN AW15 forest green oversized bondage parachute trousers

These have impressive details that allow the wearer to modify the silhouette/fit. Craig Green is one of the first designers that I felt a connection with. I own a navy pair of these trousers along with some other pre-2018 items – a time when Craig Green was at his best in my opinion.VEXED GENERATION ‘90s ballistic nylon stabproof riot parka

Obscurity is the goal for Vexed. The brand was founded by Joe Hunter and Adam Thorpe in the ‘90s and only lasted a few years. The brand produced a range of garments that were designed for and addressed an urban environment and associated environmental issues including air pollution, surveillance and civil liberties. They used a range of military and technological fabrics including high-tenacity ballistic cloths, and knifeproof and bullet-proof fabrics

I understand that you recently opened a physical space for Constant Practice in Richmond VA, how have you found the transition from digital to physical?

It’s going well. Our showroom appointments are available during the weekends only for now, but they will become available during the week starting this December. I really enjoy that people can come and see the items in person. It’s nice because the customers have a one-on-one discussion with me for the duration of the appointment. Also, they get a chance to see and hear about how passionate I am as well. A huge thank you to everyone who has come thus far – it has been great chatting to everyone, whether they purchased or not!

Which current designers can you see Constant Practice evolving to collect and sell?

I’ve been collecting a few brands for the last year and a half. and Armani are the first two I plan on selling soon. While I now have a lot of Armani Items available to purchase there are quite a few I have not listed that I think people would enjoy. It is just a matter of setting time aside to photograph. I tend to be obsessive about specific brands until I feel that I have a solid understanding, then I sell the items that I have collected and move onto another brand.

In terms of selling, aside from Per Götesson, I work with new/emerging brands including Bryan Jimenèz and Seeing Red. I am very excited about the products they are making; we operate on a similar collaborative model like I do with Per. The goal of the store is twofold: firstly, to bring to light old and new brands that people don’t necessarily know about or have considered before and, secondly, to offer a unique product curation that cannot be found at any other store, an element missing in most these days.

ISSEY MIYAKE × TAKASHI MURAKAMI SS00 reversible nylon hooded parachute coat

I believe this is one of the first times Murakami was involved in a major runway production that featured his artwork. The reversible cocoon jacket has a very interesting shape and came in two cuts, one long and one short. This specific jacket was also signed by Naoki Takizawa who was the lead designer at Issey Miyake during that time. BRYAN JIMENÈZ “Solo” double layered grey thermal arm strong hoodie

Part of my first order with Bryan Jimenèz.

In the last issue, I interviewed Clif from Middleman, a friend of yours, is it helpful having someone else in the industry to share experiences with?

Yes, Clif and I have known each other now for about three – four years. We enjoyed collecting some of the same brands, so there was a bit of healthy competition baked in. But we also helped each other out when someone had a question. The two of us went on a Yohji Yamamoto buying trip to Ohio a few years back, which was a lot of fun. It is great knowing people in the industry that are going through the same pros and cons of the business.

What opportunities has your collecting afforded you? What have been the high points?

There have been a lot of opportunities that have arisen from the store, varying from a role on a TV show to involvement in specific brands advertising campaigns. The best opportunity though is the ability to run the shop as a full-time job.

by Lily Rimmer

Explore the Constant Practice website here.