THE MANDRAKE hotel is one of those fascinating oddities I think perfectly epitomises London luxury. From the fantastical decor to all the way to the hotels eye emblem, it turns traditional high-end vacationing on its ear, the cuisine offered at the resident YOPO restaurant being no exception.
Emerging from the sultry lit lobby, my plus one and I find ourselves in the midst of a rainforest, otherwise known as the Jurema Terrace. Making the most of the warmer months, the terrace is an elevated wooden platform entirely engulfed in living plants which drape from the balconies of the residences above. Here is where we were greeted by our server, the wonderful Austeja, who explained the tapas-style format of the menu, boasting an eclectic variation of South-American cuisine.
Jurema Terrace at the Mandrake Hotel
As each dish is made with the intent to be shared, we were recommended the yellow tail and aji tiradito sashimi, of which we ordered alongside the escabeche and sikil pak pumpkin seed and roasted tomato dip. The sashimi, served with a green herb yoghurt dressing and crunchy plantain chips, quite literally melted in your mouth, and perfectly set the tone of the rest of the meal.
Though the crudités of the escabeche made for a nice addition, the standout of both dishes had to be the pumpkin seed dip. To accompany our food, we ordered a round of signature cocktails, a blue lotus – a confection of vodka, champagne, raspberry and early grey – and a mangosteen – a sweet yet spicy mix of tequila, hibiscus and grapefruit.
Blue Lotus Cocktail
Mangosteen Cocktail
Moving onto the next course, we eagerly awaited our order of iberico pork pressa, which came upon a bed of roasted potatoes, chillies, and romesco sauce. Upon our arrival to the Jurema terrace, Austeja informed us we could not leave without trying the famous aubergine, sesame and soy side dish, which made as a perfect accompaniment to the pork.
As someone who is not a huge lover of aubergine, the mixture of flavours were indescribable and it has since been planted firmly in my mind – and cravings – ever since. The recipe, originally discovered in Japan by the chef, has remained the only constant on the menu for four years, and after trying it, it is easy to see why.
Yellow Tail and Aji Tiradito Sashimi
Pineapple Tepache and Mezcal Granita
The meal was rounded off with the cooling pineapple tepache and mezcal granita, of which consisted of frozen fermented pineapple juice upon a bed of shaven ice and mezcal, the perfectly sweet ending to the wonderful mix of flavours we had experienced prior.
by Ben Sanderson