THE IDEA of fusion cuisine is one that brings excitement to many. It is a culinary expedition that combines the best elements, techniques and tastes from two places and allows them to play a symphony on your tongue – something so familiar, yet simultaneously so foreign.
So, when the opportunity came to visit Notting Hill’s Los Mochis, a restaurant that combines Mexican flavours with refined Japanese techniques, I jumped.
Exterior of Los Mochis
The genius behind the madness is restauranteur Markus Thesleff, a renowned name in the Middle East with the likes of OKKU and CLAW in his repertoire, and now has embarked on an untrodden path with this new venture.
The question that lies ahead is: can you tame the fiery fiesta of Mexican food with the elegance of Japanese precision?
Interior of Los Mochis
Tommy’s Margarita
Los Mochis is tucked away on a side street behind Notting Hill Gate tube station, a serene residential cluster where buzzing atmosphere and faint hints of friendly conversation ooze onto the road where locals are sitting drinking cocktails in the heat of the city.
To begin the embark on this culinary adventure, it is recommended by the waiters to try the famous Los Mochis Tommys’ margarita; made from Ocho reposado tequila, agave nectar and lime juice finished with a rim of spice that gives the Picante a run for its money.
However, for those who prefer to keep the spice in their food, Los Mochis has not forgotten its Japanese roots. Offering an extensive array of sakes, Dassai 23 leads the pack while cocktails including this liquor are also on offer; such as the Shingo Negroni that mixes whisky with plum sake, Campari and vermouth – certainly not a drink for the faint hearted.
Spicy Hiramasa maki
Crispy California
The amalgamation of these two cuisines begins slow and steady. The classic guacamole dip has the addition of shrimp and the California roll and tuna poke are turned into a tacos encased in a sweet potato shell. A personal favourite of mine was the cucumber and avocado sushi roll that was finished with a jalapeno salsa verde on the top of each bite, it was utterly moreish.
Octopus Anticucho
With Japan being a country surrounded by water, it comes as no surprise that fish plays a main role in their food. So, when the classic Taco that usually, apart from shrimp, has some form of meat in it and instead is full of seafood concoctions, the fusion begins to show you the endless possibilities we have missed out on.
Miso Black Cod
A standout on any menu is always going to be the black cod. The silky texture of the fish oozes a buttery taste, and at Los Mochis it is marinated in Ume Saikyo Miso and brought to life with avocado and cabbage with a kick from the fiery jalapeno – what is not to love?
This guilty pleasure is one I urge you to also indulge in. The Trailer Park Chicken consisting of fried chicken surrounded by guacamole, jalapeno BBQ sauce, Habanero Gochujang, sesame seeds and finished with coriander cress on top is something bordering spectacular.
Trailer Park Chicken taco
The meal finished with a taste of something sweet. The classic chocolate fondant with the gooey centre was full of dulche de leche with a side of ice cream, inserting more of the Mexican side to this dish whereas the Matcha Blondie on the other hand had white chocolate chips and a coconut sorbet on top, fusing more with Japanese cuisine.
However, unlike many Matcha concoctions you may try, and they are available in the masses in any shape and form, this one actually tasted like matcha. The bright green square crumbled in your mouth and the sweet coconut balanced the strong taste, a true tribute to the green tea leaves.
Hiramasa Tiradito
Beyond the food, drink and atmosphere is a fundamental charitable part of this restaurant. Los Mochis is built upon the idea of Familia, so by looking after your familia in turn it will ensure your guests are looked after; this in Mexico is called Comunidad.
With this in mind, the restaurant has founded the Los Mochis Gives Back project that aims at working with local charities to provide meals for those less fortunate – so for every meal you eat there they will donate one to someone.
Tuna Tostada
Finding the equilibrium between casual and fine dining is something hard to master, but with Thesleff’s track-record it comes as no surprise that Los Mochis has nailed it. The menu is triumphant and really does offer something for everyone, not forgetting to mention the entire menu is nut-and-gluten-free. The food we all know so well is brought to us with an unexpected twist and it is one I urge you to go and experience yourself.
by Imogen Clark
Los Mochis, 2-4 Farmer Street, London, W8 7SN