NESTLED in the heart of the city of Oaxaca – a Unesco World Heritage site – is Escondido Oaxaca, a place exquisitely designed to encapsulate the rich history and culture of the area.
The Unesco Heritage area comprises of Monte Albán (the ruins of a sixth-century Zapotec metropolis on a flattened mountaintop), Oaxaca City (a sixteenth-century grid-lined Spanish colonial city in the valley below), and the surrounding artisan towns and villages, renowned for their pottery and textiles. Oaxaca is also famous for its traditional food and for being the birthplace of mezcal; you can (and should!) try both wherever you go.
Escondido Oaxaca, Oaxaca City, with its crafted wooden entrance
Restaurant and bar serving seasonal, local food and artisan mezcal
The large, earth-red 19th-century colonial building stands on the corner of two quiet latticed streets in the centre of the city, a 10 minute walk from the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Here, passers-by can often see 18 foot puppets (mojigangas) dancing to music.
The hotel lies behind a beautifully crafted, large wooden door from which Santino, the doorman, welcomes me with a broad smile and open arms. The people I meet in Mexico are incredibly friendly, and no more so than in Oaxaca city. As I criss-cross the straight streets and pass in and out of restaurants, artisan shops and markets, I’m greeted with: ‘buenos dias’, ‘buenos tardis’ or ‘buenos noches’. With its warm people, warm colours and warm, fresh mountain air, I immediately feel right at home.
Despite my very limited Spanish, Santino takes great pleasure in describing (mainly in gestures) the hotel and its history to me. Later during my trip, upon learning that I have a bout of “Montezuma’s Revenge” (Mexico’s version of “Delhi Belly”, named after the last Aztec ruler and said to be retribution for the colonisation of Mexico), he finds me to ask how I am and recommends a dose of pepto bismol. The pepto bismol and some traditional restorative tea, given to me by the equally kind Baldo, the host of a traditional cooking course and mezcal tasting, thankfully does the trick.
The interiors of Escondido Oaxaca embrace its colonial style
Like the Unesco heritage area, the latest conception of the building into Escondido Oaxaca blends the old with the new. The interiors embrace the building’s minimalist colonial origins with its tall, round archways, brick floors and light walls that match the original plaster work (which is exposed and preserved in places).
The hotel is adorned with local indigenous objects and textiles. Juxtaposed with the original colonial building is a neo-brutalist tower. The stylish and simplistic design of the rooms is in keeping with the style of the original building, and offer quiet solitude from the busy restaurants, mezcalerias and shops that you would never guess are so closeby.
Neo-brutalist tower that protrudes from the original 19th century colonial building
After a morning spent purchasing artisan rugs and cloth from Vida Nueva women’s weaving cooperative in the nearby town of Teotitlan del Valle, I retire to my room, sinking into my large, luxurious bed and leaf through the magazine listing some of the other fabulously designed Mexican hotels. The rooms come complete with stylish robes and traditional sandals – the rooftop pool and bar beckon.
The pool and bar are trendy-sleek and, along with the plants that fill the rooftop and courtyards, complete the tranquil feel of the hotel. From the rooftop you can make out the distant outline of one of Monte Albán’s spectacular pyramids. The ruins of the city that lasted 13 centuries are an architectural phenomenon and a must-see.
Cactus and agave growing on the rooftop with stunning views of the city and surrounding hills
As I lie on the rooftop enjoying a mezcal margarita, hearing the city move around me and reimagining the ancient city high above, I can’t help but smile at my good fortune to be in such a special place.
by Georgia Weisz
A 2 night stay at Escondido Oaxaca, Oaxaca City starts at £345 per night in a Patio room.
For additional information, visit Escondido Oaxaca.