JOHNNY Coca has undoubtably given Mulberry a new lease of life since his appointment as creative director in 2015. The British brand has revolutionised in the past few years, moving to the innovative and business-savvy See Now Buy Now system, and enlisting social-media-savvy young stars such as Emma Roberts to line its front rows.
And in part, the clothes reflect this as well. Whilst it maintains its inherent Britishness – feminine, elegant and crisp – there is an undeniable youthful girlishness to the SS18 collection, seen in the soft baby pinks, striking lime greens and frothy pleated tracksuit-esque combinations.
Also noteworthy were their accessories; while Mulberry is famed for its iconic handbags, in particular its bestselling Bayswater edition, this season has seen a step towards frivolity with softer, slouchier totes embossed in croc, supple leather satchel bags and even gem-studded bucket bags, held scrunched at the top like a paper-lunch bag, though considerably more glamorous.
Keeping lines simple and shapes familiar, classic-yet-enlarged tailoring appeared paired with ruched-neck tops, and hats came in the form of giant sweetie wrappers, delicately placed on top of models head’s like a confectioners finishing touch. The more languid forms that came down the catwalk also lent towards a less constrained vibe than in previous collections. Grecian-esque rope-tied waists, huge billowing arms and hemlines that draped in glorious waterfalls of folds are sure to be a huge hit come the warmer weather.
Mulberry is of course known more for its handbags than for its clothing. I don’t believe that this collection will have an impact on this standpoint for most. What it may well do is elevate Mulberry’s status as a brand from older, dare I say slightly fuddy-duddy, to the lofty heights of Jackie-O elegance, refined and simple, tasteful and youthful all at once.
by Thomas Marrington