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Casting my mind back to the depths of winter when the festive season was upon us and the extravagant feasting was in full-throw, I have many a fond memory. The season of celebration started as it meant to go on, hopping down to Babington House for a mid-week getaway, where the cocktails were flowing, masseurs were on stand-by and feasts ready to round of the hedonistic days. This is how every Christmas should always start.
Later on in the month – in search of dim lighting and comforting food – I booked into the Merchants Tavern to sample its dinner delights. I wasn’t disappointed when we were ushered into the leather-clad dining room and to a cosy alcove table. There’s something distinctly comforting to have the choice to shimmy as close or as far from your dining partner as you wish – closely pouring over the menu when the night begins, to slide a little further away when the self-indulgence has gotten slightly out of hand. Which brings me to the food – that’s why we visited the Tavern after-all.
Orkney scallops with crushed pumpkin and trompette de la mort was my first, and undoubtedly favorite dish of the night – perhaps it’s just me who ordinarily gets one lonely scallop but I was overjoyed with this generously portioned dish – with my guest opting for the roast quail with pesto and foie gras. Between the starter and main, we opted for a Tavern sharpener – two old fashions – a dangerous, but tasty interlude between courses and beautifully served in a traditional 6oz glass.
Following on, we feasted on loin of venison – to which my ordinarily reserved partner let out a well-pronounced sigh of delight – and monkfish in a mussel and chervil ragout. The only criticism was my disappointment when the bottom of my dish started to appear. It was utterly delicious. We did decline to sample the desserts in preference for martini sharpeners and fresh out of the oven madeleines – a perfect end to what I now remember to be a deliciously hazy evening.
Prior to my visit to the Tavern I’d heard whispers that Angela Hartnett was behind this new Shoreditch restaurant. This in all honestly neither excited nor deterred me, but in hindsight if there’s a new restaurant on my agenda with her name attached I’ll be there in a flash.
The sharpeners may leave you slightly less sharp than desired – but are delicious and do hark back to an era where cocktails were the height of sophistication. The dinner certainly left me wanting more, and all so importantly left me planning my next visit to try the bar’s equally impressive seasonal menu.
by Stephanie Clair
Merchants Tavern, 36 Charlotte Road, London, EC2A 3PG