CREATIVE directors at Helmut Lang, Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson, prove that unconventional minimalism is still at the core of the brand for the SS20 season at New York Fashion Week. Maintaining the brand’s deconstructionist aesthetic, the show was set in a completely white industrial space, charged by a soundtrack of pulsating house and electronic beats, the models flitted intricately through the audience, showing off looks that remain signature to the brand.
Sheer silhouettes, minimal tailoring and leather accents all recall the label’s consistent edginess. Menswear consisted of matching suit combos featuring army greens, light wash denim, sheer undershirts, thin knits and sturdy black boots. For womenswear, Thomas created a series of contrasting looks, simple utilitarian jackets and belted trousers were juxtaposed by a number of flowing slip dresses, dainty sandals and winged neon highlighter.
Contrasting the first half of the show where the palette mostly altered from white to black, the second half of the collection featured pops of cobalt blues, fuchsias and lime greens, sporty athleisure looks and aluminum-esque fabrics hint at a reimagining of the label’s solely monochromatic approach.
by Mirabella Shahidullah