PFW AW16: Chanel

KARL Lagerfeld continued the revolutionised revelry of Chanel’s brand genealogy for AW16, presenting a costumed take on Coco Chanel’s signature garb. Rope upon rope of pearls included. Clocking in at just over 90 looks as well, this tribute to the queen of tweed tailored for women was no short order, and seemingly took some of its cues from the plan of action at Saint Laurent last night, where the classic couture salon set-up reigned supreme.




Hats crossed between pork-pie and exaggerated pillbox started the couture-esque proceedings and topped off most of the collection throughout, whilst Lagerfeld fixated himself upon playing around with innumerably varied proportions of tweed jackets below. These sprightly cuts were complemented by oversized tie collars in corresponding tweed and capes that followed suit, instantly flattering due to their significantly small proportion for a cape. Lagerfeld has definitely come round to the idea of adding the quaint touch of a cape, and other such shrouds, these past few seasons.

Elsewhere, Lagerfeld presented satin quilting that was unmistakably Chanel in soft delicate shades set against the thick feminine rosy hues and a more understated black that pervaded with Parisienne chic.




While once again technically advanced, all immaculately assembled and so suavely suited Gabrielle Chanel would be proud, the clothes didn’t move mountains. Yet as if by the magic of couture, with no particular hoopla about the set or emphasis on pantomime-equivalent art direction, the focus was implicitly on the clothes and the way the woman wears it.

Hosted today on International Women’s Day and also in the remaining wake of the terror attacks in Paris, its knell still resounding citywide long since November 13, one thinks Lady Liberty would stand just as proud alongside Mademoiselle Chanel.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Chanel

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