CLEAN, sharp and shiny were the words that came to mind as each look from the Rochas AW18 collection graced the runway. Reminiscing the 1940s the show included hems below the knee, square shoulders, and narrow hips. Not forgetting the classic red lip of the era that was the staple make-up for every model at the show. With incredible embroidery, lace frills, and metal embellishment the details of each piece really stole the show. Using snakeskin and sheer fabrics Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director, transformed the traditional design in Rocha’s archive into a modern aesthetic.
Since taking over as creative director, Alessandro Dell’Acqua has strived to include modern gestures into his Rochas shows and the Aw18 collection was an ode to that. Classic wool coats met glittery knee-high boots, tailored suits met fur detailing, and entire outfits were sent down the runway in block colours and prints. The subtle branding of an R on bags was a clear continuation from previous seasons. This collection, however, encompassed far more detail and fabric manipulation compared to designs of the past. An abundance of crystal piping, decorative sequins and metal applique, the Rochas show presented glamour at its best.
Pretty bows highlighted dainty necks, thick belts cinched in waists, and sleeves in ballooning shapes all flattered the female form. Delicate and loose draping in each look made the collection, at points, seem straight out of the archive. Despite this bright dashs of yellow, turquoise and purple showed Dell’Acqua venturing into a more youthful territory. This season was all about the shine. The glitter boots, glistening snake print, and metal thread and bead embellishment were just some of the many ways Dell’Acqua created an eye-catching and charming collection.
by Lily Rimmer
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