ANTHONY Vaccarello took flight for spring-summer 2024 but the destination wasn’t marked by decadence, it was pragmatic, pure and effortless.
Inspired by the women who pioneered in aviation and motorsports during an era defined by men, the likes of Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland found themselves front and centre of Vaccarello’s moodboard for Saint Laurent’s SS24 collection.
Set against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, the collection reflected a daytime aesthetic rather than the previous showings. The clothes weren’t made for opulent parties and for women who dance through the night, the woman this season is on the move.
But that’s not to say that the very foundation of Saint Laurent wasn’t there. The looks were utilitarian pieces designed through a couture lens that borrowed elements from a man’s wardrobe.
Opening with a set of boiler suits that played with the House’s motifs, the ordinary one piece was elevated with belts that cinched the waist, shoulders that gave a nod to the 80s and leather gloves that added some glamour.
Cargo trousers were paraded down the runway with opaque tops; halter-neck silk minis played into the brand’s younger audience; and chiffon floor-length floaty dresses were an obvious addition for his front row’s red carpet opportunities.
But the most notable look of Vaccarello’s SS24 collection was his rendition of the 1968 safari suit, an outfit that emphasised female liberation through menswear. Adding to this classic, wearable array of clothes, no sparkle or unnecessary extras were designed into SS24, it was quiet luxury through and through.
It was elegant and understated – maybe its time we go back to basics.
by Imogen Clark