YOU CAN always rely on Homme Plissé Issey Miyake to deliver a well needed injection of colour, and this was something that was in abundance at the house’s latest presentation in Paris. From geometric patterns to free flowing coats, the collection encapsulates all that we love about the designer, promising increasingly methodical production techniques that elevate the garments to near works of art.
Titled “Upon A Simplex,” the collection centres around structural garments built upon triangles. On reflection, it seems almost impossible due to the fluidity of the pieces, however it surely wouldn’t be an Issey Miyake collection if our minds weren’t exercised.
The motif of triangles and other geometric shapes are interspersed throughout the collection, some in ways that are less evident. For instance, a selection of pieces are made utilising a three-by-six method of design, consisting of six triangles made into a hexagonal shapes.
While these more discreet creations are certainly a highlight, that isn’t to say there aren’t more blatant examples of the use of shapes. A key instance is the triangular grid pattern that filters across jackets and trousers, deriving inspiration from the work of American architect R. Buckminster Fuller. Using Fuller’s experimentation with different shapes as a starting point, the triangles increase in size as they scatter across the garments, tricking the eye and creating a three-dimensional effect.
Optical illusions are another recurrent theme, most noticeable in the new “skew grid” pattern. The diagonal pleats, combined with the trajectory of the lines on the garments almost create a sense of movement as they approach, yet another evolution of the houses beloved pleated designs.
The collection is elevated though the production of the show, as envisioned by French visual arts company, Adrien M & Claire. A video installation transports the viewer to an obscure world of high fashion, and allows us to feast upon the houses continual reinvention of their staple designs, all in a way that is quintessentially Issey Miyake.
by Ben Sanderson