PFWM AW24: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake

ON THURSDAY 18th January, at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake translated the harmonious relationship between art and fashion into tangible form, through their autumn-winter 2024 collection, Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity.

Partnered with designer and artist Ronan Bouroullec, who previously designed the interior of the Issey Miyake A-POC store in 2000, the line was a visualisation of their creative synergy and playful understanding of conceptual design.

Ronan Bouroullec’s gentle and warm colours seamlessly showed off the brand’s renowned pleated fabric, and brushwork from his group of work Drawing gave new life to the white space remaining on the shirts.

His palette of rosy pinks, peaches, forest greens and sky blues elevated Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s loose-fitting, draping style.

Multi-coloured knitted scarves adorned models as wearable art, and coats with patch-style pockets folded into a functional cushion, pushing the label’s pursuit of overlapping design and clothing to new heights.

It is through the crossing of Bouroullec’s work ALL OVER and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s sensual silhouettes where an immersion of art was fully expressed – models were draped head-to-toe in pleated fabric of deep blues, ivy greens and shades flowing through the black to grey spectrum.

Naturalistic colours layered themselves atop one another in each garment, seen in looks of relaxed turtlenecks, trousers and oversized collared jackets in the palette of a sunset or woodland.

Minimalistic white coats and ponchos of light polyester fabric displayed the artist’s signature paintings by the technique of silkscreen printing.

Meeting the rising popularity of monochrome looks, voluminous garments draped over models in rich, solid colours, and the organic shapes of Bouroullec’s Stylo-Bille perfectly complimented the brand’s love for movement and unrestrained design.

Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity offers a continuation of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s research and open-minded desire to expand the connection between the body’s relationship with colour, shape, and cloth.

by Madeleine Ringer