OPENING the fifth day of Paris Fashion Week, Kiko Kostadinov made a poignant return unveiling his autumn-winter 2024 collection. Considered a master in menswear, the British-Bulgarian designer is consistently praised for his distinctive style, which remains remarkably apparent in the new collection.
Having established his eponymous label in 2016, the creative director has become renowned for his subversive collections, but the offerings breathe a certain unrivalled freshness into the fashion calendar.
For AW24, the designer opted to emphasise gestural forms and their relation to the body. Kostadinov playfully explores the rapport between old and new, familiarity and the unknown and heritage and modernity.
Each season, Kostadinov’s collections exude a sense of familiarity, but that isn’t to say that the designer is stagnating, in fact, it’s quite the opposite.
Models are seen parading down the runway in technical, functional pieces, supported by soft tailoring, relaxed lines and meticulous layering. It’s evident that as the designer grows in knowledge and confidence, his designs follow suit.
Utilising asymmetric hems, contrast piping and a muted colour palette, the pieces are effortlessly wearable and contemporary, making for an impressive display of prowess.
Moreover, footwear and accessories are always a highlight, and that goes for any Kiko Kostadinov presentation.
Having previously collaborated with artist Mariann Metsis for AW23, a new collaboration made its runway debut. Kostadinov teamed up with rising talent Noi Kamo to create a series of coiled and pinned crowns. Expertly crafted to reference Kostadinov’s Bulgarian heritage, the crowns were a stand-out piece from the presentation.
That being said, that wasn’t the only collaboration that debuted for AW24. Kostadinov also unveiled his inaugural partnership with Levi’s – the infamous American denim brand. Black denim jackets trimmed with petals made an appearance alongside denim truckers with quintessential Kiko hardware adornments.
Paired with patchwork calf boots and embroidered sneakers, each look was carefully considered and planned. Renowned for his footwear designs, the shoes also worked in tandem alongside pastel messenger bags and pouch necklaces to add subtle embellishments to each look.
Effortlessly cool and maintaining its reputation as a Paris Fashion Week favourite, AW24 is yet another triumph for Kiko Kostadinov.
by Sophie Richardson