The secret art of male dressing

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Tom Ford’s Black Orchid scent hangs seductively in the air, setting the tone of a heady evening and installing those pre-party butterflies that sleep low in the stomach. Music quietly accompanies the clinking of ice on glass as the first drink of the evening is prepared. Steam bellows and floats from room to room as grooming procedures build subtle confidence within a man’s mind.

Freshly polished brogues await the evening’s excitement as do cleanly pressed tailoring and carefully laid-out accessories. Button by button, clip by clip, each component carefully comes together to reveal the perfect evening outfit. While a woman overtly discusses her dressing plans, most men tend to keep their occasional attire somewhat secret, choosing to look after themselves and portray personality in a much more silent manner.

Dependent on personal tastes, the modern man implements his sartorial vices that may come in the form of a silk neckerchief, an engraved cigarette case, a polka-dot sock peeking at the ankle or a treasured timepiece to pepper the final look with hints of personality and style. These vices serve to make one feel ready for an evening, an occasion, a time to be noticed and in turn, a moment to be remembered.

Quality for the discerning male has grown paramount over the past few years as bespoke footwear and suiting sales increase while the idea of being “ready”, for a man today, is as quietly important as it has always been throughout the ages. We are not talking glamour, crispness and elegance all of the time (the male masses of today are slightly less exuberant in their dress than their powder-applying forefathers). However, modern men in-the-know utilise their loyalty to the brands that make them look good and feel right for every occasion. A.P.C. or Burberry for days spent creatively at work, for weekend walks, antique shopping and lunch with friends. Conversely, pepping up in Prada, Richard James, Lanvin (to name a few) as the perfect armour for a special evening occasion.

It’s a complex and precise task not widely spoken about among well-dressed men. However, it should not be mistaken as the less important sibling to the stereotypically lengthy art of female decadence and outfit building. Ultimately the personality of the wearer and their notion for trends and fads dictates the sartorial outcome, all mixed in with the social status a man would like to be labelled with. The result is exciting and somewhat pleasantly surprising. This is the secret art of male dressing.

I should say shoes but a jacket is also important. Whether it’s bespoke Savile Row or just an old Harrington, it has to be there – I’m not comfortable going out without a jacket.

Only in the sense of smart or casual. I have a very simple wardrobe that doesn’t change much from one situation to the next. However, I am partial to a decent suit and sometimes a situation needs it.

I use a fragrance called Santal by Le Labo. I love the smell and people notice it. This is the only thing that I use regularly although I’m conscious not to overdo it when I’m getting on a plane as it’s not fair on your fellow passengers!

If we have to leave the house by 8 pm, then I normally start to get ready at 7.50 pm which drives my wife crazy. It always involves music – I don’t think I would know how to get dressed without music. It has to be upbeat otherwise I struggle to motivate myself to leave the house.

I think it’s a lovely thing to treat it as an art in the way women do, but having kids killed it for me. We always had to put them to bed and then dash to get ready. Now that they are older maybe I should take more time.

It’s not frowned upon like it used to be, in fact it’s respected. Vanity is OK now. It’s now called “looking after yourself”. The secret is to look like you haven’t really tried, and that can take a lot of effort.

The article of clothing that makes me feel most prepared for the evening is a really crisp, perfectly ironed cotton shirt.

Yes, I dress for each situation. I enjoy doing this as I then feel much more part of the occasion.

I spend one hour getting ready. I enjoy listening to Vivaldi or Mozart. I follow the same routine: shave, followed by a shower and then dress.

I do believe that the classic style of dressing – and by this I mean ties, cravats, tailored suits, jackets, blazers and trousers – have been overlooked. Especially the code of dress for Black Tie occasions: the black bow tie with an elegant starched dress shirt seems, now, very old fashioned. Such a shame.

Getting dressed for an occasion is a special, private, and very creative time. It is a time to think about where I am going and with whom, and the sorts of people I might meet. I don’t dress up just to feel good about myself – I like to respect the occasion and the company.

The excuse to dress up … I enjoy the sensory and emotional appeal it adds to an otherwise everyday ordinary function … and I love an occasion.

My rickety old Rolex red date, still ticking along after 58 years … along with my Bespoke Richard James midnight blue mohair one button jacket … timeless, elegant and fits just perfectly.

Not necessarily, but feeling confident in what I’ve chosen to wear will hopefully enable me to deal with even the most ludicrous of situations.

A fragrance I acquired in Barcelona called No. 1 (for you) from the intriguing Parisian line Miller et Bertaux.

Men could make a little more effort. It’s too easy to throw on a default look and end up identical to the person next to you.

Having an awareness of the importance of detail, investment in quality, consideration and just a smidgen of neatness.

Not so much clothing but more colour, whether used subtly on sock or explosively on a cashmere sweater – if I’m wearing colour then times are good.

From the Glass archive – issue 12 – Joy