ANGELA’S of Margate beckons you into its embrace from the moment you land on its website.
Enveloping you with captivating snapshots, not only of its own enchanting ambiance but also of its sister establishment, Dory’s, a curated glimpse into the culinary marvels that grace their daily changing menu are illuminated by the Margate esplanade, where each restaurant finds its home.
Scroll a little further and a quote from E. F. Schumacher’s Small is Beautiful reads “We still have to learn how to live peacefully, not only with our fellow men but also with nature”, which goes some way to encapsulate the distinctiveness and guiding ethos that gave rise to Angela’s.
Opened in 2017 by Lee Coad, his partner Charlotte, and Head Chef Rob Cooper, the motivation was, and remains, fiercely centred around a care for people and the planet. “Everything is for the future,” Coad stresses.
Lee Coad, Co-founder of Angela’s and Dory’s of Margate
Interior of Dory’s of Margate
Whether manifested in the quality of the produce, the meticulous sourcing methods, the individuals crafting each dish, the artful serving plates, or the thoughtfully curated beverages, Angela’s of Margate presents a comprehensive and unwavering commitment to leaving as little mark on the environment as possible.
“Firstly, we spend a lot of time removing plastic from our supply chain”, Coad remarks. The rooms situated above the restaurant exemplify this commitment with features like “reused floor tiles, rugs crafted from leftover weaves, and lamps grown from mushrooms”.
Catch a glimpse of their bone china cups, crafted by the Yorkshire born potter Carly Bream using discarded fish bone remains from the restaurant below, and you’ll find yourself gasping at the delicacy.
One of the rooms you can stay at above Angela’s of Margate
Coad readily acknowledges that the restaurant, like any venture, isn’t flawless. The challenge of closely monitoring the entire supply chain from source to plate can be demanding. But by growing as much produce on their new regenerative farm – based a few miles down the road and completed in partnership with 21 year old Jack Scott, who recently won the BBC Young Countryside Champion 2023, working with local day boats and prioritising English Wines, Coad hopes to shift our attention to the finer details of how we eat.
“Anything you can’t use, you either leave out or figure out a way to do it yourself” he says. It is this admission that adds another layer of charm and allure to the restaurant’s identity.
During our visit on a brisk weekend, Coad is in the midst of developing their new project – The Perfect Place to Grow. An initiative spearheaded by Angela’s, alongside Harry Ryder from Bottega Caruso and Ani James a youth worker and chef, which aims to support unemployed 18-24 year olds into sustainable long-term employment using the food chain.
“Margate has changed immensely over the last ten years and I am very proud of my restaurants, but many parts of Thanet remain hugely deprived of support for young people. The idea is to give young people the skills, time and space to grow,” Coad explains.
Coad is particularly impassioned when speaking about the project because, as he explains, “this is a project started by us, as a result of the last seven years in this food industry, but one that will be led by young people in the future. The food producers in Kent have the amazing ability to help change the fortunes of young people”.
This community-centric initiative is further underscored by the decision to conduct classes in a space generously donated by Margate native and artist Tracey Emin.
Angela’s Gurnard, celeriac, wild garlic
Angela’s Hake tomatoes
It is credit to the strength of the ethos behind the restaurant that I am yet to even delve into the culinary delights that we enjoyed during our visit. But I have arguably saved the best till last.
Embarking on a flavourful odyssey, our culinary journey unfurled with a display of refined artistry— trout on toast, a perfect prelude to the seafood awaiting our palates. Opting for smoked prawns immersed in aioli, and scallops, set on a bed of velvety cauliflower mash crowned with toasted almonds and heightened by the piquancy of sharp capers, for our starters
and we were in a state of blissful indulgence.
We washed it down with a bottle of Blackbook’s Sea Of Love – a 2021 Pinot blanc from Crouch Valley Vineyard in Essex; a delightful dance of lemon and lime zest, peach, white floral, and grapefruit notes, offering a perfect counterpoint to the smoky saltiness.
Angela’s Skate Brown butter
Angelas’s Crab on toast
For mains, the sea trout with broccoli and ‘chorizo’ – meat free chorizo made from fish cheeks that are smoked and taste utterly divine crumbled into a salty paste. The turbot was crisped to perfection and swimming in a rich lobster bisque, both showcasing Angela’s ability to elevate humble ingredients through innovative experimentation.
“[Head Chef] Rob is fascinated and inspired by old English cookery – Elizabeth David, Jane Grigson and Simon Hopkinson. Rob always says get great ingredients and try not to mess it up,” Coad insists.
But this assertion of simplicity belies the magnificence experienced by those fortunate enough to dine in the restaurant. The memory of the sugary toast adorned with caramelised apples and a decadent veil of thick vanillary custard that was served as our finale is the metaphorical punctuation to the former sentence.
What a heavenly way to present their message, mission, and method.
Angela’s Lobster and bisque
One can only hope that Angela’s of Margate sets a commendable standard for other restaurants to aspire to, both in terms of culinary excellence and a commitment to harmonious coexistence with nature.
This establishment stands as a prestigious emblem for the seaside town.
by Lily Rimmer
Open every Thursday – Monday between 12.00 – 10.30pm. For bookings visit here.