There is always something admirable, and indeed honourable, when such forthright defiance has its take on current fashion, and in Berlin, since 2010, a certain murmuring has been heard on the au courant streets ever since identical twin sisters, Anja and Sandra Umann, became the design duo behind UMASAN, the first high-end vegan label.
A remarkable response to the self and health styled generation, UMUSAN, brings an unique ready-to-wear, adopting the craftsmanship of couture, bolstered by a “fashion-forward style, with an indifference to trends” attitude – an agenda that embodies each of their muted, austere yet versatile, and highly sophisticated pieces.
The UMUSAN woman has a cutting-edge, ambiguity-laden allure, and a definite strength of character, as well as the ability to define herself wholly, apparent throughout – from inverted collars, stemming from the shaded nonchalant elegance of predominantly masculine tailoring, to sly yet blatant monochromatic aesthetics, all boasting pristine German tailoring, and giving way to contemporary relaxed forms.
Transcending time and place, the timeless, notably progressive functionality of UMASAN is influenced, in part, by Yohji Yamamato, as Japanese cutting techniques are a major influence for the duo, feeding into an ethical purge of all wool, cashmere, silk or leather products, opting for “the fatta the lan” to quote John Steinbeck, through innovative experiments with algae, beech wood and eucalyptus by-products.
It’s fair to say that through a staunch agenda, maverick and resolute, combined with alluring clothing – which echo a minimal Garbo-esque sensuality, understated and somewhat recluse – UMASAN present prime picking for anyone with a penchant for the unequivocal pioneer spirit.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of B2B Media Limited