IT SEEMS that along with the new see-now-buy-now format comes a lot of grandeur, perhaps to properly celebrate its premier. In New York, Tom Ford threw a elegant dinner for his guests in the former Four Seasons restaurant before treating them to a glamorous collection and Tommy Hilfiger took over the pier at South Sea Port where he organised a carnival.
And yesterday evening in London, Burberry, being the first brand that officially announced changing to this direct-to-the-consumer concept, set up an exhibition of craftsmanship at the Makers House on Manette Street in Soho where the show also took place. The showcase of artisanal work under the name of The New Craftsmen, presenting different disciplines from sculpting and calligraphy to stitching and embroidery, will be open to public for a week.
The exhibition was one big mood board blown up, covering the whole ground floor of the building. Everything was related to Christopher Bailey’s inspiration for the season-less September collection, for both men and women. Orlando: A Biography, the historical novel by Virginia Woolf, a copy of which sat on every guest’s seat, was announced as the main source of inspiration days before the show as the advertising campaign was released on the internet.
The character of Orlando lives through hundreds of years from the Elizabethan times to the 1910s and also changes from a man to a woman over the period. It is fitting that this character was the inspiration for the first ever Burberry show presenting both men’s and women’s collections together.
It was no surprise to see many historical references and an homage to British heritage. Starting with opulent fabrics like floral jacquards, velvets, striped silks translated into pyjama separates and robes belted at the waist, or delicate see-through lace dresses and skirts.
Paintings were printed onto dresses, tassels served as embellishment and sweatshirts and shirt collars came Victorian and ruffled, and so did the sleeves, or with a big bow. Military and shearling aviator jackets appeared throughout. Bailey introduced a lot of layering which makes sense for a trans-seasonal collection.
After the show ended, models, still wearing their Burberry outfits, mingled in with the crowd sipping on champagne and presenting the clothes up close and showing what they’re like to live in.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Burberry.
Makers House Manette Street, Soho, London is open until September 27.