NOSTALGIA without being nostalgic can be explored within Edward Crutchley’s latest co-ed collection for SS20. Located in the outside area of the Haberdasher’s Hall, his creations recollected a stuffy Britain aghast at Ikea’s 1996 Chuck Out Your chintz TV commercial and celebrated the suburban style inspired by BBC sitcom Keeping Up Appearances.
Alongside the venue, his collection emphasised on SS20 serving contrast and conversation. With this in mind, the models walked out in messy oversized shoulders, drape front skirts, double-front coats, two-button blazers and wrapped dresses. High waisted trousers were accompanied with smart patent loafers or sharp printed silk stilettos by Christian Louboutin. Amid the merge of viscose and silk satin, these fabrics delivered a graceful and vivid vibe.
With a charming colour choice from soft pastels fading into deeper shades and neutral beige becoming vivid black, Crutchley’s preferred patterns are influenced by the vivid flora of eminent textile designer Anna Maria Garthwaite whose style errs on stereotypical English chintz.
Adding bows that reflect French eighties partywear as the main element in the collection, headpieces in silk taffeta and technical silk lurex jacquard by British milliner Stephen Jones replaced the hat.
For me, it’s a story of shifting and conflicting volumes. Looking back but thinking ahead. Elements of modesty counterbalanced with extravagance and sexiness, Crutchley says.
by Viola Li