Soaking up in Milan’s fuss-free culture, Creative Director Marco Falcioni puts on a great show.
BOSS COLLECTIONS have long excelled in subdued functional practicality. This season, even the most cursory glance revealed that this men’s and women’s spring-summer 2025 collection closely informed and reflected each other.
The leitmotif this season was the idea of functionality seen through the asymmetrically-cut blazers and crisply-cut finishes. But by using this linear trim as a creative throughline, Marco Falcioni lifted weight to the realm of his daywear and softness to the borders of his shirting.
“The concept of the collection is out-of-office, so we wanted to start from a point where we have been indulging into the perfect suiting for the business hours, questioning what happens after,” stated Falcioni backstage post-show. “Well, you want to take time off!” he exclaims, detailing how he has translated this notion by taking away all manner of constriction from the garment structure, such as shoulder pads (fusing them into linings for a breezier take).
Elsewhere, trouser hems were raised above the ankle across womenswear looks. At the same time, other standout elements such as blazers, skirts, dresses, and trench coats offer the wearer increased freedom of movement through wrapped construction and elegant draping.
“Daily offerings are close enough to what you use in your evening wardrobe, where everything is deconstructed,” Falcioni explained, expanding on how experimentation in suiting doesn’t need to please anybody. “That’s how we have been reworking the garments, no matter if they were daywear staples or evening sorts”.
This approach to refashioning a classic was more subtle and intriguing, whether highlighting the surface of delicate silks with a neutral underpinning or giving the impression of wear and ease in an elongated cocktail gown with a corp-core feel.
To some, Falcioni’s offering might fall flat for his no-fuss approach to tailoring, but look further and you can see a designer with a brilliant use of volume that is judicious to the point each seam or hue feels symbolic. “There’s a lot of colour,” he says, “and this season we leaned on green which is not a usual Boss hue [it’s the first time we’re using it], and we have a touch of rust in there too, which I think it’s a great combination between our muted essence and a fresher take. We want to have a leisure approach, making it tasteful and grounded.”
On the womenswear territory, though, a roomy pleated skirt held up by straps sits seductively along the hip. It was delicious. Now try to wrap your head around the stellar cast with names comprising the likes of Taylor Fritz or Matteo Berrettini: you’re better off just wrapping yourself in one of their outerwear garb.
by Chidozie Obasi