JULIEN Dossena explores more than just the surface in Paco Rabanne’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, as he challenges non-organic silhouettes, profound textures, and materiality. Through subverting the approach towards sensuality and strength, new attitudes are showcased that hint towards what the future of femininity has yet to offer. By staring in the face of the unknown, the collection offers a divine projection of deeper meanings.
Surrounded by metal grates and scaffolding, we are transported to one of Paco Rabanne’s earliest shows as an underground scene is conjured. There is an uncanny sense of the digital age as coded references are shone through eccentric colour palettes of vivid green, violet, blue and red. A grungy, cyber space is being reflected.
By featuring fetish-inspired materials, like clear PVC being carried over the model’s head, it provides a sense of sumptuous behaviours, with a touch of romance, for they’re designed with floral prints and classic panels of grain de poudre. Bags for the collection have also been shielded with PVC, to represent an element of protection, and we are invited to see a newly reimagined version of the iconic 1969 assemblage bags.
We are later introduced to latex, another nod towards fetish wear, as the collection carries a set of traditional silhouette slip dresses, that have been stripped away from the classic satin/silk materials and fused with a contemporary approach. The dresses have been moulded as if they’re second skin and edged with lace to simply elevate the conventional nightwear garment.
Latex is also stretched around the model’s waist, as if it’s a morphed corset, and is detailed with a ripped edge look, as if the centre of the garment has been torn out. Yet again, it captures the essence of the wearer’s ‘second skin’, appearing to us as what is underneath.
Themes of bondage are carried throughout as we see leather bands and cuffs that wrap around the body, and feature silver eyelet detailing to showcase a hand-crafted element. Combat boots are similarly styled, capturing a flex of tactility mixed with subculture references, as they aim to satisfy a readiness for all conditions.
by Alicia Tomkinson