CHALLENGING the idea of traditional menswear, Comme Des Garçons continues to surprise fashionistas with the latest SS19 Men’s show at the Paris Fashion Week. The extravagant collection, full of bold colours and clashing patchworks, perfectly reflects the Rei Kawakubo’s longstanding commitment to radical chic.
Models appeared on the runway styled like Ken dolls with plastic wigs on top of their heads, seemingly dressed up by the designer to spark discussion around what is accepted as classic menswear, be it sport or street styles.
The traditional French shirt-under-pullover look gets a refreshed touch of unstructured tailoring with holes that are not just carelessly ripped but purposely cut out, and finished off with bright multi-coloured sneakers. However, in the heart of the collection are the patchwork looks, an amalgamation of flamboyant colours, flowery prints and shiny materials, playing on the melange of French bourgeois ensembles with traditional Japanese garments and a modern twist.
The collection is abundant in ruffled tuxedos and silk shirts in vivid pinks and blues as well as colourful flower prints. Endorsing the cage-like wall that separated models and the runway during the show, the collection featured some military looks: patchworks in a green-to-brown palette yet in disarmingly airy materials.
Glass particularly remakes the brilliant ombre on the trousers of a violet three-piece, accentuating the designer’s playfulness and satiation with the traditional. Last but not least, the prominent reptile accessories, held together by a golden chain, emphasise the atmosphere of a dress-up game played by the designer in trying to shake-up the fashion community.
by Olga Kuznietsova