IT seemed almost as if Stella McCartney had coordinated with the skies for her SS25 show on Monday morning. Until then, grey clouds and rain showers had been the prevailing, and often uncomfortable, backdrop for fashion week attendees.
The sudden change in weather felt fitting, especially given that the collection was inspired by a concern for the dwindling populations of birds.
The international feather trade is estimated to be worth as much as $8.3 million USD, with ostrich feathers being the most commonly used wild bird feathers in the fashion industry. Coupled with the alarming fact that nearly 50% of bird species are in decline, the message behind SS25 carries considerable weight. “Save What You Love” became the manifesto for the collection, inspired by Jonathan Franzen’s book The End of the End of the Earth, in which he turns to birds for solace and healing.
The catwalk, situated on Marché Saxe-Breteuil, drew local residents to their balconies to watch the spectacle unfold. Rows of guests framed the runway, each wearing “About Fucking Time” caps gifted by the brand — a slogan McCartney has revived since she first donned a custom vest with the same message in 1999 to celebrate her father Sir Paul McCartney’s induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. The element of time serves as a precursor to the sustainable principles Stella McCartney hopes to embed in the fashion industry.
The garments that followed embodied this ethos, utilising materials such as Hydefy mycelium leather alternative and recycled nylon yarn, which was spun into cloud-like knits made from plastic bottles and caps. The collection, which comprised 91% sustainable materials, represented an industry-leading commitment to eco-conscious fashion.
A post-show reflection from McCartney herself highlighted the sad reality of the uniqueness of her brand—combining sustainability with aesthetically pleasing designs should not make her an anomaly. Sustainability was not a burden on the beauty of the collection; if anything, it enhanced it.
The new Stella Ryder bag took centre stage among the accessories, destined to be an instant icon. Inspired by Stella’s love of horses, its curved silhouette mirrors the gentle slope of an equine spine. It is crafted from a cruelty-free alternative using recycled materials, trimmed with VEGEA (a grape-based solution), and lined with organic hemp, a sustainable plant-based fibre.
A strong contender for the accessory spotlight emerged from SS25’s collaboration with Adidas: the new Rasant trainer, a high-top with a signature streamlined shape, featuring cascading layers of lace on fabric.
While the skies may be brightening, can we expect the future of the fashion industry to follow suit? Stella McCartney’s shows remind us of just how far we have yet to go. Style need not be sacrificed for ecological responsibility, and as ever Stella McCartney proves that.
by Lily Rimmer