WE sit quietly in stillness, binoculars in hand, patiently observing the birds as they submerge their beaks in the watering hole. Hidden beneath a clay structure that makes us almost invisible to the wildlife, we have the luxury of watching a nature documentary unfold live before our eyes, and it feels so intimate to be only a few metres away from the action. Trying to be as still as I can, and despite our guide being alert, I still occasionally sneak a look around, checking whether a local snake hasn’t decided to join us in the hideaway.
The only sign that we are not entirely alone in the wilderness is the treehouse-like building of the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge shyly poking from behind the trees. The peace and quiet that surrounds us means it is one of the top properties in Victoria Falls – a place adored equally by both wildlife and guests. The property’s greatest feature is its proximity to the local airport, which is only a short drive away. Yet, it is far enough that any trace of human infrastructure disappears when you enter the grounds, setting it apart from other luxury lodges in the region.
Watering hole view
Our flight lands early in the morning, before the African heat becomes too unbearable for us, who are too used to grey UK skies. We are staying at the Safari Club, the premium offering of the Safari Lodge. There are only 20 rooms and a stunning private pool area shaded beneath the canopy of the trees, but its most spectacular feature is certainly the wooden deck overlooking the watering hole, where, if lucky, the animals gather round. As a member of staff places a delicious-looking coffee right before me, I sink into one of the soft leather sofas, instantly spotting an elephant strolling slowly towards the water, clearly also in need of refreshment.
The window in my spacious room overlooks the endless greenery of the Zambezi National Park, enveloping me completely in nature. From the balcony, I watch warthogs with their young slowly making their way right below my feet, while various birds fluff their feathers by the water hole only a few meters away – a true front-row seat to Zimbabwe’s wildlife, which I will be able to enjoy every single morning.
Warthogs in front of Safari Club
Safari Club building
As I quickly learn, Vic Falls is the beating heart of Zimbabwe’s tourism, drawing people from all corners of the country and the world to witness the largest waterfall on the planet. The name Victoria, given to the falls by David Livingstone, dates back to 1855, but long before that, this natural wonder was known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya – translating to a much more appropriate name, “The Smoke That Thunders”.
On the approach to the waterfall, we hide beneath our umbrellas and, remembering my earlier scepticism, I am very thankful I brought one. Masses of water cascade down with a deafening roar, creating a dense cloud of mist around us. During the peak of the wet season, we wouldn’t be able to see the waterfalls at all – the density of the fog and spray swallowed the entire view, with droplets powerful enough to travel as far as our Safari Lodge five kilometres away.
To truly appreciate the sheer size and grandeur of the Falls, we hop into a helicopter organised by Zambezi Helicopters. Our flight path is called the “Flight of Angels”, named after Livingstone’s famous quote: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”
Safari Club room
The description rings true as we ascend. The greenery below is carved by ridges and valleys, allowing the Zambezi River to drill channels through the landscape before finally reaching the edge and plunging downward. The large bridge connecting Zimbabwe with neighbouring Zambia – such a grand structure when seen from the ground – suddenly feels insignificant against the scale of the surrounding nature.
Despite the waterfalls being the main draw of the region, the area offers plenty of other activities, ensuring there is never a dull moment during our stay. From sunset cruises on the Zambezi River on a Pure Africa large, white barge – where, accompanied by refreshments and delicious snacks, we watch large families of hippos play-fighting in the water – to afternoon game drives through the Victoria Falls National Park, where our guide’s keen eye helps us spot giraffes and zebras hiding among the bushes.
Safari Club Private Pool
I’m particularly fascinated by the Vulture Culture experience, happening each day at one o’clock sharp at the Safari Lodge, during which the staff feed the birds of prey with leftover meat and bones from the hotel’s restaurant in an effort to preserve the species. For hours beforehand, the vultures circle above us, awaiting their feast, lurking to secure the best spot. An insightful briefing reshapes my perception of the white-headed creatures, who play a vital role in the local ecosystem. As we watch them fight for every last bite scattered across the ground, we learn how their powerful digestive systems eliminate dangerous bacteria, helping prevent disease from spreading among local wildlife.
After the day full of adventures, there is only one appropriate way to wind down, so I grab my robe and head down to find the Victoria Falls Safari Spa. Tucked away from the main building, the space is quiet and serene. I am able to lounge by the pool waiting for my massage enjoying the constant sound of the bushbacks freely moving nearby. The menu offers a variety of massages and treatments designed to restore the muscles and relax the senses, leaving me calm and regenerated with my skin deeply moisturised.
Safari Club viewing deck
The evenings are spent indulging in a sundowner drink on the sun deck, waiting for the sky to erupt in an array of pink and orange hues, chatting with other travellers and staff members, whilst enjoying the view. The faint sounds of the Boma – the dinner where guests can sample classic Zimbabwean dishes while watching a lively drum performance (and potentially get a certificate for eating a Mopane worm – a local snack) – drift softly through the warm evening air.
With the horizon stretching endlessly ahead and the animals around settling into the night, I feel deeply privileged to experience and learn about the sheer beauty and diversity of the region. The passion with which the staff share their stories and knowledge is what makes the stay at Safari Club such an unforgettable and enriching experience.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book a stay visit here.
Standard Club Room starting at £606 per night.