Applause for New Pre-Theatre Menu at The Goring

IN 1910, when The Goring opened, the wow factor was an en-suite bathroom in every bedroom, a first for any hotel, and a chef who trained under Escoffier. The Goring’s new pre-theatre menu, thanks to Chef Graham Squire, creates its own headline news and makes another reason for visiting The Dining Room.

The hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant has recently been refurbished by Russell Sage studio and has a lightness and whimsicality (note the witty details in the Fromental wallapaper) that perfectly suits an early evening, summertime meal.

What has not been lost is The Dining Room’s poshness – in the nicest sense of the word – and an old-school glamour and grace that makes dining here such a pleasure. The drinks trolly and sommeliers in red velvet jackets do not look remotely out of place.

The Dining Room at the Goring

Of the three choices of starters, the dish of a Somerset soft cheese with heritage tomato can be wholeheartedly vouched for and my companion absolutely loved the stuffed morel with a baked truffle cream. There are three main dishes to choose from and if you have not previously eaten at The Dining Room the restaurant’s famed lobster omelette has to be considered alongside the chicken and duck (no vegetarian or vegan choice).

Heritage tomato takes centre stage in one of the starters on the pre-theatre menu

Being just minutes from The Apollo Victoria and Victoria Palace theatres, The Goring’s location is ideal for a pre-show treat and The Dining Room’s  menu of seasonal British ingredients thoroughly deserves being enjoyed in its own right.

by Sean Sheehan

The pre-theatre menu, £80, is available from 6pm, last seating 6.15pm; tel: 020 7769 4475.