ONE of the London’s most iconic hotels has welcomed a brand new restaurant, 1890 by Gordon Ramsay, named after the year French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier visited the Savoy and created some of his signature dishes. The new fine dining eatery pays tribute to the legacy of the culinary master and takes inspiration from his signature dishes and techniques.
The restaurant, with its vintage-looking interior, transports the guests back in time. Small round tables covered with crisp white cloths, dim lighting and gold accents, creates a romantic and intimate atmosphere. Overlooking the hotel’s entrance, the dining room can only seat up to 26 guests. enhancing the feeling of exclusivity and excellence.
Dinner is served in a form of a nine-course tasting menu, which makes it more of a palate journey rather than solely a meal. Without any previous list of dishes, we are pleased to discover that the evening will be a surprise after surprise.
We opt for a fine wine option to go alongside the courses. The list is prepared by the restaurant’s brilliant and passionate sommelier, Emanuel Pesqueira, who makes sure not only that each dish is elevated by his selection of exceptional wines, but also that his guests leave the restaurant having explored and learnt about their drinks.
In some cases, tasting menus can leave you feeling let down by selected courses and what can be more disappointing than enjoying just a few of the extended number of dishes. This is not the case with the 1890 – each plate is exceptional. A feast for both eyes and taste buds leaves you wondering how possibly can the chef create something even better. The portions are perfectly balanced being just enough for you to appreciate the flavours, but leave you excited with anticipation for the next course.
Our journey starts with a glass of Perrier Jouët, the champagne which is available per glass only at 1890. Unusually pink, when poured into a tall glass, and especially delicate, you can tell straight away it is not just a typical bubbly.
The first dish to arrive is a platter of canapés. Each of the bitesize tarts overflowing with interesting combinations of flavours; beetroot, horseradish, caviar and buckwheat, Devilled langoustine, chickpea tart and smoked cheddar gougère and pickled walnut.
Next, we see the waitress carrying over a mysterious looking teapot, which reveals to have the most exquisite and heart-warming onion conosommé.
Mixed with wild garlic, which lies at the bottom of the teacups, is extremely flavourful and elegant especially with the side of warm Parker house roll garnished with onion, black pepper and rosemary and, of course, topped with a thick layer of butter.
The magic and delight of 1890 menu is that even the simplest dish is still a thrilling adventure. Asparagus and potato with morrells and wild garlic pesto have left us speechless, especially with the company of the most unusual white wine Pera Manca Branco from Portugal, which is made by blending sweet and dry wine together to achieve a perfectly balanced and fruity outcome.
The same going for another personal favourite of mine – Turbot Véronique with champagne and caviar beurre blanc sauce. It doesn’t go more fine dining than that.
To finish our most exciting degustation of modern French cuisine and a tour through best vineyards in Europe, we have a pleasure of trying a blood orange parfait with freshly poured chocolate cardamon sauce. Inspired by the chef’s, James Sharp, grandmother and her beloved Terry’s Chocolate Orange, the dessert melts in your mouth and brings the heartfelt joy, something which isn’t often said when referring to a pudding.
Even though it was not a quick dinner, we have found it hard to part with our table at 1890. The most welcoming atmosphere of the restaurant and excellent food will undoubtedly be mentioned to everyone in the nearest future.
by Olga Petrusewicz
Restaurant 1890 is open from Wednesday to Saturday with two dinner sittings.
The exclusive tasting menu is priced at £110 per person, with bespoke wine pairing options.
To book visit here