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Glass reviews Gunpowder’s gung-ho new brunch menu


HAVING already secured its place in the top 20 of Time Out’s best London restaurant list, relative newcomer Gunpowder has expanded its offering with a brunch menu. Launching in 2015, Gunpowder’s kitchen is headed up by Nirmal Save, once a chef at Mayfair’s Tamarind, and the small but perfectly formed space, has attracted rave reviews and bums on seats thanks to a punchy lunch and dinner menu that brings the best of India’s diverse flavours to Spitalfields.

Beef GujiyaBeef Gujiya

Bloody BhatraBloody Bhatra

Now an established fixture on London’s dining scene, Save and his team have turned their attention to brunch and the result is a spice-infused spin on regular pre-midday fare. Among the highlights are the coconut and chickpea pancakes that – when topped with eggs and fragrant chutneys – would sway even the most devoted brunch enthusiast from their avo on toast.

Weighty masala beef gujiyas (an Indian take on an empanada) and paneer parcels are given levity with spiced tomato relish while – not for the faint-hearted, the liver and kidney on sourdough are substantial enough to see you through til sunset.

Gun Powder BrunchGunpowder Brunch

Coconut and chickpea pancakesCoconut and Chickpea Pancakes

Gun Powder BrunchGunpowder Brunch

Meanwhile beyond the coffees, teas and juices on offer, a worthy drinks menu boasts similarly inventive twists for brunch. Standouts include a soon-to-be-legendary bloody mary variant, the bloody batra, which comes infused with whole chilli and mustard seeds, and a sublime gimlet, both of which will help a brunch at Gunpowder go off with a bang.

by Ben Olsen

11 White’s Row, London E1 7NF, gunpowderlondon.com

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