FOR AW17 Erdem Moralioglu decided to go back to his roots. The Canadian-born linked together his heritage – Turkish from his father’s side and the English of his mother’s. But since he was seeking inspiration from the past, he went even further and married the Turkish Ottoman way of dressing ªdating back to the 17th century) with the British Victorian style, which has become popular among designers over the past few seasons, including Moralioglu himself. As ever Erdem doesn’t fail to look back to times more romantic and poetic, than the one we find ourselves today, to search for inspiration for his collections.
The Ottoman fashion was interpreted in rich fabrics with even more richer colours and patterns. Brocade, satin and plush velvet dresses in golden yellow, dusty pink or vibrant floral patterns had long flared sleeves and high collars, while long jackets were always belted in the waist and paired with matching trousers also in brocades. Fur coats were long and patchworked or embellished with flowers and worn over Ottoman-like belted layers.
Floor-length buttoned-up dresses with accentuated shoulders, balloon sleeves tight around the wrists and the waist were then to show the designer’s English side. Ruffled white dresses were worn with an embroidered and embellished transparent black layer. A series of long pastel lace dresses evoked an English summer countryside.
There were parts where the two fashions intersected. A belted Victorian dress, even though slightly short, with a high collar and puffy sleeves was made in a golden satin with a variety of flowers blooming all across the fabric.
Erdem came up with a wide choice of matching footwear – from open boots with black ribbon lacing in the front to full boots or high platform sandals and pointy flat slippers. The show closed with sequinned evening dresses in midnight blue and dark purple in shapes both Ottoman and Victorian.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of The Communications Store