INSPIRED by the Terracotta Army, Chet Lo’s autumn-winter 2024 seasonal offering perfectly depicts Lo’s East meets West-inspired design approach.
Discovered in 1974 by local farms in Shaanxi, the Terracotta Army belonged to the first emperor of unified China, Qin Shi Huangdi. Obsessed with mortality and longevity, the emperor commissioned 8,000 clay soldiers, 600 horses, 100 chariots and waterfowl to protect him in the afterlife.
Once bold in colour, the statues are now a faded reddish-brown hue due to exposure and time. Despite changing shape, colour and composition, the army continues to astonish and leave onlookers in disbelief. Fascinated by the army’s magnitude and ability to stand the test of time, Lo has brought the soldiers back to life for his latest collection.
Renowned for his signature knitted spikes, Lo utilises strong, geometric forms across all aspects of the ensemble.
The spikes remain an undeniable focal point, running across the hoodie’s sleeves, down the spine and along trousers and skirts. Similarly, felted wool sarong trousers have been adorned with spikes to further exemplify Lo’s ability to weave Eastern influence into his collections.
Ideas of the army are made perfectly explicit through wool hybrid skirt trousers, which mirror the silhouette of armour.
Meanwhile, liquid metal-esque hooded jumpers – constructed using Tollengo 1900 yarn – and silver paillette headdresses echo the stone helmets belonging to the Qin dynasty. Cropped turtlenecks and wool trousers featuring a felted spike print have also been carefully twisted and shaped to allude to a statue crackling as it reawakens.
Considering all aspects of each look, models stomped down the runway with hair slicked down with silver foil – a reference to the metal helmets of the army. Meanwhile, mesmerising molten silver tears delicately embellished the fresh faces.
Having been inspired by German visual artist Gerhard Ritcher for the AW24 colour palette, a velvet Devoré top and skirt utilise a hypnotic square pattern that cleverly pays homage to Ritcher’s Uran 1989 painting.
The London-based designer also decided to debut his recent collection made in collaboration with Charles & Keith. The partnership features a series of spike-splayed ballet flats, sling-back heels and handbags, which were all showcased during the presentation – worn in the show with socks provided by Pantherella.
by Sophie Richardson
The Chet Lo x Charles & Keitch capsule is available to buy in Charles & Keith retail stores and online via charleskeith.com and chetlo.com.