SINCE being named one of the British Fashion Council’s NewGen recipients, Masha Popova has become one of the most hyped designers to show during London Fashion Week. Renowned for her Noughties-fuelled collections, the designer has instead turned to the 2010s for autumn-winter 2024.
Titled GLI$TEN, Popova has tapped into classic references and themes from her adolescence. Think endless animal prints, layers and layers of jewellery and the ever-intriguing jeggings phenomenon.
However, it wouldn’t be a Masha Popova collection without a subversive twist. Meeting at the intersection of nostalgia and maximalist glamour, the seasonal offering exemplifies the ethos of the brand.
Whilst gathering inspiration for the collection, Popova turned to paparazzi imagery, cult TV series Skins and The Bling Ring to explore the contrast between display and privacy.
Despite focusing on the 2010s, the designer also wanted to build a narrative surrounding faux realities and juxtapositions. In particular, a dichotomy many upcoming designers face between ‘dressing celebrities, champagne parties [and] living in a garage.’
Echoing the thematic contrasts of the collection’s concept, the clothes appear in a range of experimental fabrications and materials. Popova’s trademark washed-out, stitch-and-reveal denim re-emerges, however, this time the same treatments are used on various jerseys. Continuing her partnership with ISKO Denim, Popova’s denim looks remain considerable highlights of the show.
However, a variety of prints and patterns have been introduced for the new season. From leopard spots to faux-fur textures, the collection playfully welcomes the rebirth of noisy opulence.
Similar Y2K10 staples are seen scattered through the collection in the form of jewellery and sweatshirt graphics. Spiky chains and pendants have become contrast prints on denim maxi skirts, whereas dramatic plastic beads have been scaled up to adorn tees and other casual wear garments.
Maintaining an emphasis on a relaxed silhouette, the designer carefully alludes to draped scarves and hoodie tracksuits to conceive a 2010s fantasy. Once paired with wet-look UGG boots and dyed, grungy hair, the ensemble is complete.
Having previously looked to monster trucks for inspiration, AW24 displays an exciting new director for the designer. Loud, gritty and wonderfully busy, Popova is set for another successful year.
by Sophie Richardson