MFW SS17: Moschino

JEREMY Scott’s Moschino dolls dominated the SS17 Moschino catwalk in Milan. Deriving inspiration from Valley of the Dolls, the startling in 1966 novel by American writer Jacqueline Susann and subsequent 1967 film romp of the same name now appreciated more for cult camp value and as one of Sharon Tate’s only starring vehicles, it gives material that proves commercially viable again and again. For Scott, an out-and-out Americano aficionado it felt ripe for the picking and resulted in a good collection of developed ideas.

Designs were dainty through lollipops and gumdrops sixties influence given further sassy kitsch by the Moschino branding Scott brandishes each season like a Gatling gun. Dresses are poised delightfully for day and into night, looking with heartfelt sincerity back to the Helen Gurley Brown instigated Sex and the Single Girl pulse of the era. Another spirited and sensationally realised concept concocted by Scott was the paper doll tabs fixed onto items given a two dimensional trompe l’oleil effect. Altogether these fun elements marked the continued evolution of Moschino under Scott’s watch.

Though a technical textile-grounded evolution in regards to cut, shape and pure relationship with the female form is probably not what we are going to get here, it was never really even Franco Moschino’s mission to break any ground there in the first place. Scott’s vision for Moschino is still ever-popular and undeniably cool.

by Livia Feltham

Images courtesy of Moschino