Returning to form, subtlety sells and projects an uptown, sexy kind of drive for Sportmax’s spring-summer 2025 collection.
Sportmax has been honing a continuum for several seasons now. Shifting toward an “exercise in intuition and precision” that flows from one collection to the next (and then the one after that) is one reason its clientele is so loyal.
Engaging with the bait-and-switch side of fashion is not its thing. Design-wise that frees the brand up to rock out a little volume and shape when womenswear shows roll around.
Stepping away from the tumult of maximalism, a splash into Sportmax’s world is like taking refuge in an aunt’s house party—albeit the polished, meticulously appointed, plush variety. Any drama is left on the racks.
Taken off the fixtures, though, you could see some of the season’s dresses could be a problem-solver on the red carpet for instance, with the added benefit of a finely-sculpted detail and the fact that they were light as air (whether there’s a sly euphemism in these longline gowns is in the eye of the beholder).
For little extra coverage, architectural jerseys and soft-tailored sartorials are in for the win, emerging from the curves of the body and embracing its movement with pleasing breeziness. Throughout, asymmetric transparencies and organic plays on layering create an optical energy that invigorates the brand’s visual language.
In the shadow of elongated cuffs and hems, an array of prismatic accessories and crystal embroideries evoke the freedom of a body in motion. Moving onto the accessory territory, there were fresh colours that constituted the Soffy bag: a soft, pillow-like purse with twisting ‘S’ hardware makes its runway debut, broadening the line’s practical appeal.
From structured outerwear to denim classics or leather gowns, the dedication to lightweight and malleable fabrications expresses the technical evolutions at the heart of the new Sportmax wardrobe.
In another vein, a sharp white gown with a breezy top and a choice of different-length toppers could go anywhere, anytime. In a more casual, everyday vein, a grouping of beading or skirts in sheer hues pairs this season’s trends for neutrals with a depth of volume.
A series of one-toned separates looked sharp and unfussy expanding on plunging necklines and deep slits that reveal the tasteful modularity of the garments. The label employed maximal-meets-minimal friction that exposes the shifting tone of its narrative.
For all of Sportmax’s way of controlling and moulding garments, it left a billowing tent of sheer essentialism open to interpretation. Toy around in it and you’ve almost got wearable art.
by Chidozie Obasi