Engaging with tradition and irreverence, Sabato De Sarno leads his spring-summer outing away from all manner of fuss—grounding it in reality.
Anyone who thinks Sabato De Sarno delivers much of the same as seasons drift by isn’t looking carefully enough. While it’s true he clings to archival polish with little risk, he holds Gucci’s collections to high emotional standards so that each one exemplifies a well-considered revision of what has come before.
“A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction,” he noted about the SS25 show taking place at the Triennale.
“Moment after moment, I have built my ideas for Gucci. A casual grandeur that takes shape through my obsessions – tailoring, lingerie, leather, 60’s silhouettes, all combined with the tireless exploration of the heritage of this brand – and always with an irreverent attitude.”
To his default register of red and neutrals, he integrated a warm grouping of hues that acted as a strong stand-in for the collection. Opening the show with tailoring in its most essential yet never ordinary glory, with trousers cut on the sneakers, merging the women’s wardrobe with menswear.
The colour palette includes grey, Gucci Rosso Ancora, white, tones of green, and a touch of orange. Standouts include silhouettes presenting a homage to the 60s, with structured jackets, shorts, and A-line skirts. The grand coats with a couture attitude, of the finest construction, bring new vigour to the GG Monogram.
Designed for the every day, therefore worn effortlessly with denim and a tank top. The leather, with a glossy finish, is already part of Gucci’s DNA. The lingerie peeps through the lace dresses and the slightly open coats.
Depicting ‘casual grandeur’ and offering a fresh spin on the white tank, efforts to elevate essentials won’t go unnoticed. Certainly, those who swear by his classics will appreciate his skilfulness in adapting drama to timelessness.
by Chidozie Obasi