MILAN, Italy — Brunello Cucinelli, more than most brands, understands the importance of in-season retail affairs. After all, the founder and his devoted clientele, many of whom shop for understated luxury items with a soft appeal, don’t necessarily create a strong demand for new merch turnover. Rather, the brand continues to fuel ideas that pay tribute to lasting elegance and ditch all manner of seasonality or trends.
Typically, there was a lot going on there, with the key theme (aside from being separates, neutral-toned suiting, and maxi-patterned embroideries) being inspired by nature, offering a wide variety of tailored classics, including some very good breezy textiles.
The real story, though, was centered around texture. The Brunello Cucinelli team has developed a fascination for all things swanky and nubby: dishevelled trims made an appearance in flared trousers, and there were tufted fabrics on occasion. One of the brand’s more interesting ideas was to showcase open-knit patterns, perforated surfaces, and mesh to heighten the sense of transparency across lace works, gauzes, and diaphanous surfaces.
The tactility extends to airy textures and ethereal hues, which, in turn, are able to create an atmosphere of movement and roomy elegance. Meanwhile, the brand continued to explore the notions of form by updating cuts, ergonomic constructions, and beefing up the silhouettes with a winningly potent, compelling appeal.
All in all, fans will also go for tailored lines and comfortable volumes, merging volumes that result in fluid and dynamic silhouettes in equal measure. Let’s put this one in the win column for the brand.
by Chidozie Obasi