PFW AW18: Giambattista Valli

WITH thigh-high flashy designs and voluminous layering the Giambattista Valli AW18 collection strengthened his signature fantastical look. Never one to shy away from the super-feminine side of fashion, the show was an abundance of frills, flowers, and glitter. Admittedly, it began with a biker undertone with leather jackets, wet-look trousers, and leather boots gracing the runway. This was soon replaced, however, with fluffy sandals, floral prints and delicate tailoring.

Sequin manipulation was rife and placed to create an element of illusion. One design resembled shell art and another seemed to be the petals of a rose. Clashing prints were meticulously sewn to create an air of fluidity while simultaneously highlight the many layers of each look. Pleated chiffon gowns were paired with miny waistcoats with ridged piping details, ruffled dresses were layered with mini cropped vests, and light and airy gowns were worn underneath a black and netted maxi dress.

The clash of elegant draping against structured materials may be an indicator of the future for the design house, one that is less focused on pure beauty and instead challenges the boundaries of the concept. The fluffy sandals that were paired with patterned tights (we’d love to know whether they were designed with toe-gaps or were awkwardly shoved on) confirm our prediction. Closing the show was a turquoise voluminous ruffled and frilly ball gown that returned the show to the Giambattista Valli classic.

Billowing sleeves and orange and brown hues gave a 1970s vibe. The orange floor-length corduroy jacket, as well as the shearling jacket, and thigh-high boots alluded to the hippie-chic style of the same era. Inspired by the peripatetic pioneers of the ‘70s who travelled abroad to understand other cultures and better their art, Valli celebrated numerous cultures in his collection. From Mongolian flip-flops to British tailoring, to Morrocan kaftans, the Giambattista Valli Aw18 show had it all.

by Lily Rimmer