Haute Couture Fall 2016: Ulyana Sergeenko

DEMI-GODDESS of demure couture, Russian socialite-cum-credible couturier Ulyana Sergeenko, put on a show of homeland glory for Fall 2016. Tapping into her Soviet-era heritage Sergeenko created a beautiful collection of simple pieces fixated on unfussy colour combos and modest but perfectly cut patterns instead of the usual fairy-tale theatrics.

The sartorial sobriety didn’t inhibit Sergeenko in any way however, the definition of minimal for a designer of her calibre and for the likes of Helmut Lang is still vastly different after all, but instead allowed her to excel in creating bashful debutante-fit daywear. This meant a lot of the details were stronger than ever, with tweed pant suits and elegant column dresses which let the lady do all the talking for herself, instead of any excessive baubles of embellishment. Quite the statement for Sergeenko.

Furs were spectacular and perhaps reminiscent of a childhood lived in sub-zero conditions. A swell of mint green fox with floral flecks of colour led the way in coats that actually clued more into Western decadence than anything else. Designs like this however; in particular those with an element of homeliness one could only associate with their elders, polished off the collection with a prepossessing quaintness that didn’t get too caught up in nostalgia.

Though she achieves effortlessly every time, glitz and glam aside, Sergeenko has safeguarded her increasingly revered reputation in the funny world of couture yet again.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Ulyana Sergeenko