LFW AW16: J. JS Lee

Declaring Victorian architecture and furnishings as her main inspiration, from what I’ve seen J. JS Lee’s AW16 show radiated rather Chinese influences.


It was apparent in the colour palette combining deep scarlet with black, and bright yellow mustard, ivory and grey were added as the show went on. Silk dresses resembled Chinese traditional dress with high collar, which could also be considered as a Victorian detail, sure. Also black tassels, tied around models’ ponytails, wrists and waists, carried on with unspoken theme. A possible nod to Victorian furnishing was detectable in dresses covered with these tassels, hand stitched and appliquéd.


Power dressing was key in this collection. Models walked down the runway to an upbeat music in skirt and trouser suits as the designer repeatedly empowers women with her impeccable tailoring skills season after season. It seems especially appropriate today as we fight for gender equality and feminism is the key word. Some of the silhouettes, i.e. strong broad shoulders and oversized coats, were borrowed from the 1980s as it was the prime of power dressing.


The main material used throughout was light French wool, forming coats, full skirts with wide elastic waist, A-line dresses with frayed hems, worn with ‘leg warmers’ made out of the same material, and Céline-esque elasticated shoes on a mid-heel. Also bucklé tweed was present in the collection making out full looks, including shoes.


The emphasis of the silhouette was predominantly on the waist, celebrating femininity. Otherwise Jackie Lee was experimenting with the silhouette by layering pieces, or creating two-toned garments.

by Sara Hesikova  

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