WHEN talking about Greek dining, what first springs to my mind is the sense of community and distinctive, yet simple flavours. Conversations shared over souvlaki; arguments that quiet down the moment a fragrant moussaka lands on the table. The beauty of Mediterranean cuisine lies in its simplicity and its reliance on fresh produce, but most of all in the atmosphere surrounding the ritual of enjoying food.
The dim lights of Maza spill onto the street. We enter through the bar, where a rainbow of liquors glows behind a turntable and sound system. The large dining room is bathed in red and brown hues, with low pendant lights hanging over each table.
Plants scattered throughout, paired with dark wooden features, soften the space and lend it a snug atmosphere. The open kitchen, which stretches across much of the room, is immediately drawing the eye; the steam rises from the grill as chefs flip pitas in a constant rhythm.
Adrien and Christina
A new venture from the duo behind Notting Hill’s much-loved Mazi and Suzi Tros, like its sisters, Maza is focused on seasonal produce and reimagining Greek cuisine. The space is inspired by Athenian tavernas, but reimagined for the Mayfair crowd: crisp white tablecloths, polished silverware catching the light. As I sit down, I can’t help smiling at the words “don’t smash the plates” written across mine. It neatly sums up my first impression of Maza – highbrow but not pretentious, offering little pockets of humour and its own personality to the guests.
Open kitchen at Maza
Cocktails to start, of course. My Halkidiki olive Martini is dry and smooth; if someone told me it wasn’t vodka, I’d believe them (I did check and it definitely is), and it’s adorned with three large, deliciously buttery green olives. You really can’t go wrong with a good triple olive martini. My guest opts for a Negroni – and as an Italian who isn’t easily pleased when it comes to his national drinks, he savours every sip, calling it balanced and deliciously strong.
Unsurprisingly, the menu orbits the Greek classics and invites sharing, promising an absolute feast. There’s tzatziki, spanakopita, grilled vine leaves and, of course, Greek salad. But there are also a few intriguing – sometimes confusing – twists, like 80s disco fries with veal kokkinisto, or bone marrow tagliatelle. A large section is devoted to meats and fish, the latter caught fresh daily and served in a wide variety of forms.
The dishes arrive at our table as they come out from the kitchen, the anticipation making us even hungrier for what’s to come. Tarama arrives first, a dip of cured cod roe and a generous squeeze of lemon, and vanishes as quickly as it arrived, scooped up with freshly baked maza. Next comes a delicate tuna crudo finished with a Mediterranean twist on ponzu dressing, followed by a steak tartare topped with a surprising dollop of cheese ice cream – definitely a new sensation for our taste buds.
Dining room at Maza
Please don’t smash the plates
Chargrilled octopus, cut into small chunks, is served with capers and a squeeze of lemon is proof that you cannot beat a well-delivered simplicity. Then the star of the show we’ve been waiting for: shredded pork belly gyros, juicy and crispy at once. Our waiter’s top tip is to save some bread for the end, which we put to good use mopping up every last drop of fragrant juice. To balance the meat-heavy feast, we finish with the signature green salad, which surprises us with a truly addictive flavour. A dish which often goes overlooked – at Maza is as memorable as the classics.
By the time of dessert, we have lost track of how many plates we’ve eaten so far. The time passes uninterrupted, and to our surprise, we have spent two hours eating and talking. We debated between a baklava sandwich and a chocolate mousse cake, both very eagerly recommended by the staff. Finally, we settle on the latter, as I get excited by the promise of an 80s-inspired treat . It doesn’t disappoint. Covered in chocolate sprinkles and topped with whipped cream and a candied cherry, it’s both a beauty and my childhood dream in a dessert. A delicious one, too. Despite feeling full, we polish off the plate, fighting over the last bite.
Chocolate mousse cake
Maza manages to achieve something quite hard to balance: being tied to its roots, as well as avoiding falling into a theme. The confident cooking, electric atmosphere and staff’s genuine passion mean it is a place where time somehow disappears. Taking my coat, I am already hoping to come back – and this time I will be ordering the baklava.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit here
21-23 Bruton Place, Mayfair, London, W1J 6NB