MARKING her tenth year in the fashion industry, Victoria Beckham’s show was intimate and meaningful. Set at James Burden mansion, an Italian Renaissance-style mansion, the show brought the small number of attendees up close and personal to the fabrics and detail of each piece. The intimacy alluded to her first shows and worked well as a reminder of how far Beckham had progressed in the industry. The collection, as well as marking the anniversary celebrations, was a farewell to New York and a hello to London as her new show destination. Although the choice is strategic, keeping her largest market in mind, it comes at a time when doubts on the longevity of New York as a fashion week destination are growing. Victoria Beckham’s departure is a significant blow.
The collection celebrated the female form in its inclusion of tailored items, cinched-in waists, and animal print ferocity. Although it was clear her figure-hugging silhouette signature had evolved, the exaggeration of hips and small waists was as strong as ever. Embracing individuality, Victoria Beckham encouraged her models’ distinct style. The casting was eclectic and a mix of diverse characters. Introducing leggings, back with attitude across NYFW, into the show worked well with Beckham’s layering aesthetic. And if layering of the leg wasn’t enough, the leather leg warmers that were a feature of a couple of looks cleverly brought style and sophistication to a playful accessory.
Sensational leather dresses, khaki green military outerwear with asymmetric collars and oversized cuffs, and subtle origami folds in trousers, skirts and a dress were just some of the highlights of the collection. Bags ranged from body size to purse size, clothes ranged from smart suit style to casual hoodie, and the colour palette ranged from busy prints to neutral blocks. With such an array of detail and variation, it was no surprise that Beckham was so keen to keep the show small in fear that these niceties would be lost. Fabrics were progressive and technical and were a clever indication of the exciting future for Victoria Beckham.
by Lily Rimmer