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A speakeasy within a speakeasy, Peony is a discreet, enchanting enclave hidden in the very depths of London’s Chinatown. It’s actually part of Opium – the stylish cocktail bar and dim sum restaurant on Gerrard Street – but has its own menu of drinks.
When we visited, we were quickly ushered through Opium, which is itself quite hard to come by, and through a little door at the back. Peony reminds one of a lost scene from Wong Kar-Wai’s In the Mood For Love, so is a fitting location for a covert cocktail. The mixologist, Rasa Gaidelyte, developed the small offering especially for the bar, and it changes frequently.
We chose the Golden Sazerac, a mixture of potent, throat-warming rum, bitters and goji syrup. It arrived with a glass tumbler, in which ginger and lemon grass smoke is trapped – ready to be released just before drinking, in order to enhance the flavour.
Bitter sweet goji berries are served on the side, too. Then came the Lí Hé Weishìjì, a combination of Chivas 12 whisky, citrus juice, pear and bitters, made frothy and lightweight by an egg white. Had we stayed for another, we may have opted for one of the punches, which come in teapots for two or four. The Hot Green Chivas was of particular interest – an appealing blend of whisky, green tea, honey, lemon and cloves, served hot and, inevitably, comforting.
To accompany cocktails, the bar offers a selection of three dim sum platters, each prepared at Dumplings’ Legend below. There’s the classic offering, including plump siu mai and traditional char siu bao, a seafood selection, and a vegetable option. One platter between two is more than enough to leave you satisfied – each piece of dim sum is generously portioned.
by Becky Zanker
Peony at Opium Cocktail Bar and Dim Sum, The Jade Door, 15-16 Gerrard Street, London
Tel: 020 7734 7276