PFW AW16: Hermès

At first glance Hermès played it very safe for AW16, taking it back to the all but rather inoffensive basics to deliver a collection that was nonetheless delightful. On much closer inspection you’ll see creative director Nadége Vanhee-Cybulski worked hard on giving leathers and furs given intricate treatments not seen anywhere else this season, placing the likes of this underneath or on top of subtly colour blocked layers of fine fabrics.

For her, the key is very much in the detail at Hermès, a house taking every step to max up its street cred beyond Birkin bags and silk scarves.




There was the trace of a silk scarf-esque print for 2016 however; a sort of starburst of a palm leaf placed onto some of the dresses, adding a little more character to the majority of the bland-chic collection. This starburst effect then evolved into garments becoming awash with small ball-bearing studs, something which will be instantly recognised as Vanhee-Cybulski trying out something new.

Opera gloves studded in the same manner were another example of this kind of thing giving life to the basics that made up the rest of the collection.



The collection then came to an end with three somewhat dramatic dresses originating as turtle-neck sweaters and given swooping skirts that, if you look closely once again, are essentially comprised of the whisper of a Hermès silk scarf. Finishing off the whole smoke and mirrors affair with a quiet magnificence these dresses summed up the brand under Vanhee-Cybulski’s thoughtful eye.

Her quest to take something we have always known the brand for, the equestrian charm of the sporting life materialised in showy precious textiles, and make this relevant to wear now is putting this fashion brand on a pretty interesting course.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Hermes

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