THE BUSTLING atmosphere of Hong Kong’s night markets pours in and around the juxtaposing Ball Room of the Mandarin Oriental, interwining itself with the electric buzzing of the audience. Then, the beating pulse of Chet Lo‘s AW26 begins.
Inspired by an intimate revisiting of Hong Kong, Lo‘s AW26 was formed from the mundane to one, reimagining them under a new, romantic lens. Midnight blacks, dramatic reds and deep emerald greens wind round the runway, and within the grand space, a truly immersive, neon-lit city is born.
In a rejection of factory production, the demi-couture collection was handmade in Chet Lo studios. Consistently reinventing what it means to manipulate fabric, Lo’s signature craftsmanship was easily recognisable in delicate yet defensive merino wool spikes and multi-dimensional appliqués.
Performative in a theatrical sense but grounded in authentic presence, sensuality and unapolgetic expression prevailed. Sheer inserts, open shirting and daring ladder-constructed gowns tease your gaze, while long leather gloves and belted trousers conceal, protect and offer functionality to the avant-garde.
Each glance around the room brings you back into the thoughts swirling in Lo’s mind; community must be protected, maintained and celebrated. Ten young Asian creatives and charities set up shop around the room, encouraging visitors to browse and connect. Profits from the show will be donated to the Asian People’s Disability Alliance, in an effort to stand true to the inclusive intention behind the show’s setting; night markets inhabit an ecosystem where status dissolves, voices rise, and a shared sense of belonging forms.
Lo has come a long way since moving from New York, in both critical acclaim and recognition, as well as in his own personal and creative mind. This AW26 marks a pivotal shift in Lo’s practice, moving the label from exploring and proving identity to the solid grounds of hosting and uplifting it.
by Madeleine Ringer