Taking over the helm of Balenciaga from Demna in July, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s appointment signalled an immediate separation from what the House had become known for. His 25-year tenure at Valentino was threaded together with an abundant relationship of romanticism, dramatic silhouettes, and a bold admiration for colour.
His transition from the Italian brand to this House, rooted in couture but continually reshaped into an ultra-contemporary leader, led him to the conclusion he couldn’t ignore the past decades – rather, he needed to find the equilibrium between Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy and the forward-thinking touch of his predecessors.
Titled The Heartbeat, Piccioli’s debut collection was foregrounded by recalibration rather than reinvention. He wanted to begin by finding the pulse of what Balenciaga means – the codes that have never left and continually keep the brand alive. The show opened with a sculpted black gown, its form suggesting the presence of a cape. The immediate injection of sharp minimalism was a reset: it turned the clock back and oozed the same beautiful simplicity that the founder thrived on.
Full skirts and sweeping hems were contrasted with strong tailoring and leatherwear, whilst voluminous forms arrived in a combination of ruffles and feathers. Restraint was further exercised in the colour palette: bursts of rich hues like aubergine and blood orange sat alongside a decadent domination of monochrome looks.
Like many of his contemporaries who are also making their debuts, there is a common pattern of highlighting one design synonymous with the founder. For Piccioli, it was the Sack Dress from 1957: a design that eliminated the waist. Using it as a template, his couture sensibilities emerged through the shape and its draping, creating his own version in pale pink to close the show.
Whilst Spring/ Summer 2026 felt like a new dawn, there were still moments of the brand’s edgier past. Bug-eye shaped sunglasses, chunky platformed sandals, and opera-length gloves were reminiscent of the ‘cool’ aesthetic often linked to the brand, whilst remaining entirely aligned with the new vision.
What Piccioli has always thrived in is offering theatrics that feel wearable, crafting fantasy that doesn’t feel out of reach but rather borders the avant-garde. Many new appointments have glistened with familiarity this season, but Piccioli has managed to gracefully create an emotionally resonant reinvention for the House.
by Imogen Clark