Few perfumers are as inspiring to chat to, or as passionate about their subject as Azzi Glasser. Her colourful career has seen her create scents for well-known brands such as Agent Provocateur, Space NK and Jasper Conran together with bespoke scents for the likes of Johnny Depp and Helena Bonham-Carter, as well as working on projects with the Palais de Tokyo and an art exhibition run by James Lavelle.
Her latest venture has seen her team up with designer Bella Freud, creating three Eau de Parfums: Ginsberg is God, 1970 and Je t’aime Jane (slogans which adorn Freud’s classic jumpers). The perfumes follow on from the three corresponding candles Glasser had previously created for Freud. If you’re looking for a “signature scent” you could do a lot worse than with these, which don’t smell like anything else you’re likely to encounter.
Our particular favourite is Ginsberg is God – smoky sweet and highly addictive, it’s modelled on the idea of a poet at the turn of the century, surrounded by a sea of papers. It has the woody, resinous aroma of an artist’s studio – with a dash of moss, leather and black pepper to give it an air of yesteryear. But a musty old library, this is not – it’s rather sexy in fact – and works well on both men and women.
As the name would suggest, 1970, is another scent that harks back to another time, echoing a hedonistic “flower child” dancing in the incense-infused air, with rich notes of frankincense and myrrh, together with soft blonde woods. And Je T’aime Jane is deceptively charming and seductive, with sweet orange blossom and ylang ylang scandalised by the addition of black oud and queen of the night flower. It conjures up a young, carefree Jane Birkin, skipping down the streets of Paris, drawing everyone’s gaze with her spidery-lashed eyes and cheeky toothy grin. Je T’aime Jane is described’ is described by the brand as “a free spirit with a guitar, a baby and long bare legs”. Any exhausted new mothers in need of a pick-me-up scent will no doubt appreciate this one …
The three fragrances of the Bella Freud Eau de Parfum Collection created by Azzi Glasser
by Viola Levy
Each fragrance is £65 for 50ml, available at Harvey Nichols and here